Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, widely known as PFAS, are a family of man-made chemicals characterized by an extremely strong carbon-fluorine bond. This unique chemical structure grants them exceptional resistance to water, oil, and heat, leading to their widespread use across many industries. While the polyester polymer itself does not inherently contain these substances, PFAS are commonly applied to polyester fabrics as a surface treatment. The industry utilizes these chemicals to achieve desirable properties like durable water repellency and stain resistance in consumer goods.
The Use of PFAS in Textile Treatments
The primary reason PFAS are associated with polyester is their application as a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish. This coating is applied to the exterior of fabrics, especially in outdoor gear, to make water bead up and roll off the surface instead of soaking in. The performance benefits of these chemicals are significant, which is why they are also used for stain and oil resistance in upholstery, carpets, and various types of workwear. Because of their chemical persistence, these substances are often referred to as “forever chemicals.”
The Health and Environmental Impact of PFAS
PFAS are concerning because once they are released into the environment, they do not break down naturally, a trait known as persistence. This chemical stability allows them to accumulate in soil, water, and living organisms, leading to bioaccumulation throughout the food chain. Virtually every human tested has some level of PFAS in their bloodstream, which has raised concerns among health organizations.
Exposure to these accumulated chemicals has been linked to potential health issues, including hormonal disruptions, effects on the immune system, and increased risks for certain diseases. In the textile lifecycle, PFAS can leach into the environment during manufacturing, product washing, and eventual disposal. Washing a PFAS-treated jacket, for example, can release these fluorinated compounds into the wastewater system, contributing to broader environmental contamination.
Identifying and Avoiding Treated Consumer Goods
Since manufacturers are not required to list PFAS on clothing labels, identifying treated goods often requires consumers to look for functional descriptions. Terms such as “DWR finish,” “waterproof,” “stain-proof,” or “oil-resistant” on polyester products are strong indicators that the item has been treated with PFAS. The long-standing use of these chemicals in the outdoor apparel industry means many high-performance polyester items contain them.
Consumers seeking to avoid these substances should look for specific third-party certifications and explicit labeling on products. Seeking items labeled “PFAS-free,” “PFC-free,” or “Fluorine-free” provides the clearest assurance that the fabric treatment does not use these compounds. For items where the labeling is unclear, such as high-end outdoor gear, checking the manufacturer’s website or contacting customer service is often necessary to confirm the absence of fluorinated chemicals.
Emerging PFAS-Free Alternatives
The textile industry is actively developing and adopting new finishing technologies to replace PFAS-based DWR treatments. One widely used alternative involves silicone-based DWR finishes, which create a hydrophobic surface causing water to bead and roll off the fabric. While silicone options provide excellent water repellency, they typically do not offer the same level of oil and stain resistance as traditional PFAS treatments.
Other innovations include the use of non-fluorinated, hydrophobic polymers and plant-based or wax-based coatings. For example, some brands have adopted technologies like Teflon EcoElite, which is a renewably sourced, non-fluorinated fabric treatment that still provides durable water repellency. These newer chemical solutions are designed to achieve high performance while avoiding the persistent chemical structure that makes traditional PFAS a concern.