Pineapple Sage (Salvia elegans) is a favorite among gardeners for its unique characteristics and vibrant late-season color. This herb, a member of the mint family, is easily identified by its soft, bright green foliage that releases a distinct, sweet, and fruity aroma reminiscent of pineapple when crushed. The upright shrub produces striking, tubular scarlet-red flowers in late summer and fall, offering a valuable nectar source for hummingbirds. Both the fragrant leaves and the bright flowers are edible, commonly used to flavor teas, cocktails, salads, and desserts.
Determining If It Comes Back
Whether Pineapple Sage returns each spring depends entirely on the climate where it is planted and its ability to withstand cold temperatures. The plant is botanically classified as a tender perennial, meaning it is naturally a perennial in its native high-altitude habitat of Mexico and Guatemala. This perennial status holds true only within the warmest regions defined by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Hardiness Zones.
Salvia elegans is consistently hardy and reliably returns year after year in Zones 8 through 11. In these warmer zones, the plant typically dies back after a hard frost, but the root crown remains alive beneath the soil and regrows vigorously in the spring.
Gardeners in Zones 7 and colder must generally treat Pineapple Sage as an annual. In these colder climates, freezing soil temperatures kill the root system, meaning the plant will not survive the winter to reappear the following season.
Preparing Outdoor Plants for Winter
Gardeners in borderline zones, such as Zone 7 or 8, can take steps to maximize the chances of their Pineapple Sage surviving the winter outdoors. The plant can generally tolerate temperatures that dip down to about 20°F, but survival beyond that point requires intervention.
Insulating the Root Crown
The primary goal of cold-weather preparation is to insulate the root crown from the lowest temperatures and protect it from freeze-thaw cycles. The plant can generally tolerate temperatures that dip down to about 20°F, but survival beyond that point requires intervention.
Pruning and Mulching
After the first killing frost causes the foliage to blacken and die back, cut the stems down to approximately an inch or two above the soil line. Leaving a short stub helps mark the plant’s location and provides a small measure of protection for the crown. Next, apply a thick layer of organic mulch directly over the cut-back plant and the surrounding root zone. This layer should be substantial, ideally four to six inches deep, to provide effective insulation. Shredded leaves, straw, or wood chips are excellent choices for this purpose.
Ensuring Drainage
Ensuring excellent drainage throughout the winter is important for outdoor survival. Roots that sit in cold, soggy soil are more susceptible to rot and death than those exposed to cold, dry conditions. If the planting site tends to hold water, consider mounding the mulch slightly to help shed excess moisture away from the crown.
Keeping Pineapple Sage Alive Indoors
Overwintering Mature Plants
Gardeners in Zone 6 and colder, or those who grow the herb in containers, must transition their Pineapple Sage indoors to ensure survival. One method is bringing the entire potted plant inside before the first frost threatens. Before moving the pot, cut the plant back by up to two-thirds to manage its size and reduce pest issues.
Once indoors, the plant requires a location with sufficient light, such as a south-facing window, to maintain its health during the dormant period. If natural light is scarce, a simple grow light can supplement the necessary photons. Reduce watering significantly, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out completely between applications, since the plant’s growth rate slows dramatically in lower winter light and temperatures.
Propagating Cuttings
A second, more practical approach is taking stem cuttings in late summer or early fall to create smaller plants to overwinter. Take four- to six-inch cuttings from healthy, non-flowering shoots and remove the leaves from the bottom half of the stem. These cuttings root easily in water or a moist, well-draining potting medium, often without the need for rooting hormone.
Overwintering small cuttings on a sunny windowsill or under a grow light is easier than managing a large, mature plant. This method preserves the genetics of the parent plant and provides rooted plants ready for transplanting outdoors the following spring after all danger of frost has passed.