The growing concern over the safety of synthetic materials has brought per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) into the spotlight. These compounds, often called “forever chemicals” due to their environmental persistence, are widely used across many industries. As a result, consumers frequently question whether common synthetic textiles like nylon contain these substances. This article clarifies the relationship between the nylon polymer and PFAS treatments to provide a clear answer for those seeking safer product choices.
Chemical Distinction: Nylon and PFAS
Raw, untreated nylon is fundamentally distinct from the chemical class of PFAS compounds. Nylon is a synthetic polyamide fiber, a polymer chain built from repeating units linked by amide bonds. The chemical structure of the nylon fiber primarily consists of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and nitrogen atoms, containing no fluorine.
PFAS is a collective term for thousands of chemicals defined by the presence of an extremely stable carbon-fluorine (C-F) bond. This bond is one of the strongest in organic chemistry, granting PFAS its signature resistance to heat, oil, and water. The inherent chemical makeup of the nylon fiber itself does not include the fluorine atoms characteristic of PFAS.
The Role of Fluorinated Finishes in Nylon Products
The connection between nylon and PFAS is not due to the base material but rather to a surface treatment applied during manufacturing. PFAS compounds are applied to nylon fabrics to create a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish, which is highly desirable for performance textiles. This finish is what makes nylon outerwear and gear resist not only water but also oil and common stains.
The finishing process involves industrial application, such as dipping or spraying the nylon fabric in a solution containing fluorinated compounds. The fabric is then heat-cured to lock the coating onto the fibers. Historically, long-chain PFAS like Perfluorooctanoic Acid (PFOA) were used, but these have been largely replaced by shorter-chain PFAS molecules.
The PFAS compound is a coating that sits on the exterior of the nylon fiber, functioning as a surface barrier. The nylon material itself remains chemically unchanged by this finish. Therefore, a nylon product may or may not contain these chemicals, depending entirely on whether it received this specific high-performance surface treatment.
Evaluating the Risk of PFAS Exposure from Textiles
The primary concern regarding treated nylon is the potential for PFAS to be released from the fabric during its life cycle. Exposure to humans can occur through multiple pathways as the Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish degrades with use.
Exposure pathways include:
- Shedding of microfibers and particles containing the fluorinated polymer through mechanical abrasion. These tiny particles contribute to PFAS levels in household dust and indoor air, which can then be inhaled.
- Leaching of PFAS directly into wastewater during washing.
- Evaporation of volatile PFAS precursors, such as fluorotelomer alcohols (FTOHs), from the textile into the surrounding air. These substances can later break down into highly persistent perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs).
Once released, these chemicals persist and are highly mobile, contaminating water sources and the food chain. The risk of exposure is higher with older garments that used long-chain chemistries or when the DWR coating is heavily worn and shedding.
Consumer Guidance on Treated Nylon and Alternatives
Labeling and Certifications
For consumers seeking to avoid fluorinated chemicals, product labeling can be a helpful guide, though it is not always straightforward. Reliable labels include explicit statements such as “PFAS-free,” “PFC-free,” or “fluorocarbon-free.” Since manufacturers rarely label DWR treatments as containing PFAS directly, the presence of a water- or stain-resistant claim suggests the potential use of these chemicals.
Certifications from independent third parties also provide assurance that a product avoids these substances. Certifications like bluesign or OEKO-TEX Standard 100 indicate that the textile has met strict environmental and toxicological standards, including the elimination of PFAS in their finishes. Consumers should be wary of products labeled only as “PFOA-free,” as this excludes only one specific legacy chemical, while others may still be present.
Non-Fluorinated Alternatives
The textile industry is increasingly moving toward non-fluorinated DWR alternatives to maintain performance while eliminating persistent chemicals. Effective alternatives include treatments based on hydrocarbon waxes, silicones, and dendrimers, which achieve water repellency without the carbon-fluorine bond. When purchasing nylon products that do not require water resistance, such as standard apparel, prioritizing untreated nylon is the simplest way to ensure the absence of these chemical finishes.