The Lonicera genus, commonly known as honeysuckle, includes hundreds of species that are popular ornamental plants due to their fragrant flowers and vigorous growth. The question of whether a honeysuckle plant “dies back” in winter does not have a single answer, as its cold-weather behavior varies significantly. The plant’s response to cold temperatures depends entirely on its specific type—whether it is a vine or a shrub—and the climate zone in which it is planted. Understanding this variability is the first step in providing appropriate winter care for your particular honeysuckle.
The Decisive Factor: Species and Cultivar
The species determines the plant’s natural tendency for leaf retention during cold months. Deciduous varieties, such as the trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) or many bush types, naturally shed all their leaves in the autumn. While these plants appear completely “died back” above the soil line, this is a healthy, annual process where the plant conserves energy in its root system.
Evergreen or semi-evergreen types, like Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) or Lonicera fragrantissima, retain their leaves throughout the winter, especially in milder climates (lower USDA hardiness zones). If exposed to a sudden hard freeze or prolonged freezing temperatures, they may shed some foliage or the leaves may turn brown, becoming semi-evergreen. This partial leaf drop is a protective response to conserve moisture when the ground is frozen and roots cannot absorb water.
Understanding Dormancy and True Dieback
It is necessary to differentiate between the natural, healthy state of dormancy and actual physical damage, known as true dieback. Deciduous honeysuckles enter dormancy, a period of metabolic rest where growth ceases, but the plant remains alive with energy stored in the roots and stems. The leafless stems and branches of a dormant plant are still viable and will resume growth when temperatures rise in the spring.
True dieback occurs when the woody tissue of the stems or branches is killed by extreme cold, often due to frost damage. This damage manifests as mushy, blackened, or brittle stems that are permanently dead. The “scratch test” is a simple diagnostic tool: lightly scrape the outermost layer of bark from a suspect branch. If the tissue immediately beneath the bark is bright green, the branch is alive and merely dormant, meaning the cambium layer is intact. If the tissue is brown or dry, the wood has suffered true dieback and is dead.
Essential Winter Preparation and Care
Proactive care steps increase the honeysuckle’s chances of surviving winter unharmed, regardless of its type. Proper moisture management prevents plant stress; provide a deep watering before the ground freezes solid. This ensures the roots have a moisture reservoir, protecting the plant from desiccation caused by cold winter winds.
Apply a thick layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded leaves, around the base of the plant. This mulch acts as an insulator, protecting the crown and shallow root system from damaging freeze-thaw cycles. For container-grown honeysuckle, move the pots to a sheltered location, like an unheated garage or shed, to minimize exposure to extreme temperature fluctuations.
Pruning should be delayed until the plant is ready to exit dormancy in the late winter or early spring. Waiting allows the gardener to definitively identify and remove only the wood that has suffered true dieback. Pruning immediately before winter can stimulate tender new growth highly susceptible to frost damage, so waiting until the threat of severe cold has passed is the best approach.