Elastane, widely known by the brand names Spandex and Lycra, is a synthetic fiber prized for its remarkable stretch and recovery properties in clothing. This material has become a staple in modern apparel, especially in form-fitting and athletic wear, but its chemical nature has led to growing public questions about safety. Many consumers are concerned that this synthetic fiber may contain Bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical linked to endocrine disruption, prompting a closer look at the actual composition of these textiles.
Understanding Elastane and Bisphenol A
Elastane is a long-chain polymer, technically classified as a segmented polyurethane or polyether-polyurea copolymer, which gives it its signature elasticity. The fiber’s structure is built from soft segments that provide the stretch and hard segments that lend strength and recovery. The primary components used to synthesize this polymer do not inherently include Bisphenol A. BPA, by contrast, is a chemical compound primarily used as a monomer in the production of rigid polycarbonate plastics and epoxy resins.
Despite not being a structural component of the elastane fiber, BPA has been detected in elastane-containing textiles, particularly in athletic wear. The presence of BPA in the final product is typically due to its use as an additive during the textile finishing and dyeing processes. Manufacturers may use BPA as an intermediate chemical in the creation of antioxidants, which are applied to the fabric to enhance its lifespan, provide color stability, or strengthen the fibers for easier production.
Other Chemical Concerns in Textile Manufacturing
Beyond the concern about BPA, the production and finishing of synthetic textiles like elastane involve various chemicals that can remain as residues in the final garment. The manufacturing of polyurethane fibers, for instance, often requires the use of powerful solvents, such as Dimethylformamide (DMF). Residual traces of these solvents can sometimes persist in the finished fibers, posing a concern for skin contact, though responsible manufacturing aims to minimize this residue.
Dyes are another source of potential chemical exposure, especially a class known as azo-dyes, which are used to achieve vibrant colors in synthetic materials. Under certain conditions, such as prolonged contact with sweat, some azo-dyes can break down and release aromatic amines, which are compounds suspected of being carcinogenic. Chemical finishes are frequently applied to elastane-blend fabrics to achieve desired performance attributes like moisture-wicking or wrinkle resistance. These finishing agents can include formaldehyde, which is used to prevent shrinkage and creasing, but is known to cause skin irritation and allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Other substances that may be present are phthalates, which are sometimes used to soften plastic-based materials, and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs), a group of surfactants used in washing and dyeing.
Minimizing Exposure from Clothing
The health concern with chemical residues in textiles centers on the pathways through which these substances can transfer from the fabric to the wearer’s body. Dermal absorption is the primary route, where chemicals pass through the skin, a process that is accelerated by certain physical conditions. When wearing tight-fitting clothing made with elastane, the combination of friction, heat, and sweat provides an optimal environment for chemical transfer. Sweat acts as a solvent, helping to leach residual chemicals like BPA and dye components out of the fabric and onto the skin, where they can be absorbed into the body.
To mitigate this exposure, a simple and effective action is to wash all new garments before wearing them for the first time. While washing may not remove all embedded or bonded chemicals, it can significantly reduce the concentration of surface-level residues and finishing agents.
Consumers can also look for independent third-party certifications on their textile products to ensure a higher standard of chemical safety. The Oeko-Tex Standard 100, for example, is a globally recognized label that guarantees every component of a certified textile has been tested for a list of over 100 substances known to be harmful to human health. Products bearing this certification have been tested for restricted substances, including specific azo-dyes, formaldehyde, and certain aromatic amines that may be emitted from polyurethane materials, offering a practical way to choose clothing with lower chemical risk.