The dilemma of what to do with an orchid’s flower structure, or “spike,” once the blooms have faded is common for new plant owners. This stem, which held the vibrant flowers, has completed its primary task, but whether it should be removed depends entirely on the orchid species and its post-flowering condition. Making the correct cut is important because it dictates whether the plant will attempt a quick rebloom or reserve energy for overall health and new growth. Understanding the different growth habits is the first step toward proper care after the flowering cycle ends.
Understanding the Orchid Spike
The decision to cut the spent flower spike is not universal for all orchids because different types have distinct growth patterns. Orchids are generally categorized by how they grow: monopodial or sympodial. This growth habit determines if the plant can rebloom from the existing spike or if a new spike must be generated. Monopodial orchids, such as the widely available Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis), grow upward from a single central stem and may rebloom from the current spike. Their spikes contain dormant buds, or nodes, which can be prompted to produce a secondary, smaller flower branch. Conversely, sympodial orchids, including Cattleya and Dendrobium species, grow horizontally and only flower once from a specific spike.
Step-by-Step Cutting for Moth Orchids
For the monopodial Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis), there are three options for pruning the spike after all the flowers have dropped. Before any cut is made, the tool, whether a razor blade or sharp shears, must be sterilized with rubbing alcohol to prevent the transmission of disease. The most common choice is to encourage a secondary bloom by cutting the spike about one inch above the second node from the bottom of the plant. If the spike is still green but the upper portion has turned brown or yellow, remove only the discolored part, cutting just above the highest green node. If the entire spike has turned yellow or brown, the spike should be cut completely down to within an inch of the plant’s base, signaling the plant to conserve energy for new leaf and root development.
Care for Spikes That Will Not Rebloom
Orchid types that follow a sympodial growth pattern, such as Cattleya, Dendrobium, and Oncidium, require a simple, definitive cut once flowering is complete. These plants produce their flowers from a new growth and the spent stem is incapable of producing further blooms. When the spike browns and dries completely, it should be removed to redirect the plant’s energy away from maintaining dead tissue. Using sterilized tools, the dried spike should be cut as close to the base of the plant or the pseudobulb as possible. Removing the dead spike also reduces the risk of fungal or bacterial infection that can occur in decaying plant material.
Promoting New Growth and Reblooming
Once the physical pruning is finished, the focus shifts to environmental adjustments to initiate the next bloom cycle. Orchids require a period of rest and specific triggers to produce a new spike. The most important factor in promoting reblooming is providing a necessary temperature difference between day and night. Many orchids, especially Moth Orchids, require a drop in nighttime temperature, often down to a range of 55–65°F, for several weeks to stimulate flower production. Continued bright, indirect light is also necessary, as the plant needs sufficient energy to support a complex flowering structure. The fertilizer regimen should also be adjusted during this resting period to encourage new growth. While the plant is focused on vegetative growth, a balanced orchid-specific fertilizer can be applied.
Understanding the Orchid Spike
The correct procedure for the spent spike depends on the orchid’s fundamental growth habit.
Step-by-Step Cutting for Moth Orchids
For the Phalaenopsis orchid, the most common option is to encourage a rebloom by cutting the still-green spike above the second or third dormant node. This placement aims to activate the node’s cells to produce a new, secondary flower stem. If the spike is still green but the tip has started to die back, trim only the discolored portion just above the highest healthy green node. If the entire spike has turned yellow or brown, the dead spike should be cut off completely near the base using a sterilized instrument.
Care for Spikes That Will Not Rebloom
Orchids like Cattleya and Oncidium that exhibit sympodial growth require a simple, clean removal of the spent spike. Once all the flowers have dropped and the spike has begun to shrivel and turn brown, it must be removed. The dead spike will not produce new flowers and can become a point of entry for pathogens if left to decay. The spike should be severed with sterilized shears near the point where it emerges from the pseudobulb or the main plant body. This action immediately redirects the plant’s energy reserves toward the development of new leaves and roots.
Promoting New Growth and Reblooming
After pruning, the orchid enters a vegetative phase focused on building strength. The most effective way to stimulate a new flower spike is through environmental manipulation, particularly temperature variation. Many orchids require a clear drop in night temperatures (55–65°F) for several weeks to initiate flowering. Light exposure remains necessary, and the plant must receive bright, indirect light to generate energy. Adjustments to the feeding schedule are also important, often involving a shift to a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content as the plant approaches the desired reblooming time.