The Amaryllis bulb delivers a spectacular display of large, trumpet-shaped flowers that brighten indoor spaces. Once the blooms fade, gardeners must provide specific care to ensure the bulb, which functions as an energy reservoir, stores enough resources to produce flowers the following year. Successful re-blooming requires removing the spent flower stem, nurturing leaf growth, and inducing a period of rest.
Removing the Spent Flower Stalk
Yes, the spent flower stalk should be cut, but only after the entire flowering process is complete. Once the last blossom has withered, cut the tall, hollow stem, also known as the scape. This action prevents the plant from diverting energy into seed production, which drains the bulb’s stored food reserves.
Make the cut cleanly with sharp pruners or a knife, leaving a stub of one to two inches above the bulb. The remaining stub should be left alone until it naturally withers and turns yellow or brown. Cutting the stub while it is still green could introduce pathogens or damage the bulb tissue.
Essential Leaf Care for Energy Storage
While the flower stalk is removed, the long, strap-like green leaves are necessary for the bulb’s survival and future flowering. These leaves perform photosynthesis to generate the carbohydrates that are stored in the bulb. If the bulb does not successfully recharge its food reserves during this phase, it will not have the energy required to initiate a new flower stalk.
The Amaryllis should be treated like a regular houseplant throughout the spring and summer, placed in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Water the plant consistently, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out between waterings to prevent root rot. During this active growth period, it is beneficial to feed the plant every two to four weeks with a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer.
Maximizing leaf growth during this care period maximizes the energy stored within the bulb. Once the risk of frost has passed, the potted plant can be moved outdoors to a partially sunny location for the summer, which often encourages more vigorous growth. This vegetative phase typically lasts five to six months, allowing the bulb to accumulate the resources for the next bloom cycle.
Forcing Dormancy and Preparing for Storage
To ensure successful re-blooming, the bulb requires a resting period, or dormancy, which must be induced artificially indoors. Begin this process in late summer or early fall, approximately three to four months before the desired re-blooming time. The first step in forcing dormancy is to gradually stop watering and fertilizing the plant.
Withholding water signals the bulb to cease active growth, causing the green leaves to yellow and dry out. Once the foliage is completely yellow and brittle, cut it back to about two inches above the bulb. Move the potted bulb to a cool, dark, and dry location, such as a basement, where temperatures remain consistently between 50 and 59 degrees Fahrenheit.
The bulb should remain undisturbed in this dormant state for a minimum of eight to ten weeks. This cool rest period allows the bulb to initiate the formation of the new flower bud internally. After the dormancy period is complete, bring the bulb back into a warm, bright environment and give it its first water to stimulate the next flowering cycle.