The belief that succulents inevitably die in winter is a common misconception that overlooks their diverse nature. Succulents do not inherently perish when temperatures drop, but they are exceptionally vulnerable to specific winter conditions, particularly freezing temperatures and excessive moisture. The risk depends entirely on their hardiness and the care adjustments made by the grower. Most popular houseplant varieties, which originate from frost-free regions, require proactive changes to their environment to survive the colder months.
Understanding Succulent Dormancy and Hardiness
Winter survival for succulents is determined by their species-specific hardiness, which dictates how they respond to cold through dormancy. Dormancy is a period of reduced metabolic activity where the plant conserves energy and limits growth, usually triggered by shorter daylight hours and lower temperatures. This mechanism allows them to endure unfavorable seasonal conditions.
Succulents are broadly categorized into two groups based on their cold tolerance. “Tender” succulents, such as Echeveria, Haworthia, and Crassula, are native to warm climates and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures, typically succumbing below 32°F (0°C). These varieties are commonly grown indoors and must be protected from frost.
In contrast, “hardy” succulents, like certain species of Sempervivum (Hens and Chicks) and Sedum (Stonecrop), are adapted to colder environments. They can withstand freezing temperatures, sometimes down to -40°F in very dry conditions. These plants often remain outdoors year-round, entering a deep dormancy where they may appear shriveled or discolored.
The Three Primary Causes of Winter Mortality
The death of a succulent in winter is rarely caused by cold alone, but rather by three specific environmental failures that overwhelm the plant’s natural defenses. The most immediate threat is frost damage, which occurs when moisture stored within the plant’s fleshy leaves and stems freezes. As water turns to ice, it expands, causing the plant’s cell walls to rupture. This leads to mushy, translucent, or blackened tissue that cannot recover.
Root rot is a common cause of mortality for indoor succulents, resulting from overwatering during dormancy. During winter, the plant’s water uptake significantly decreases, meaning the soil stays wet for much longer. Prolonged wet soil starves the roots of oxygen and creates an environment for fungal pathogens to flourish, causing the roots and stem base to decay.
Thermal shock is a rapid, extreme fluctuation in temperature. This stress often occurs when tender plants are moved suddenly between warm indoor and cold outdoor environments. Quick changes disrupt the plant’s metabolism, preventing it from acclimating and leading to damage distinct from direct frost exposure.
Essential Adjustments for Winterizing Succulents
Preventing winter death requires proactively adjusting the care routine to match the plant’s state of dormancy and the season’s environmental conditions. The most significant alteration is to the watering schedule, which must be drastically reduced or paused entirely. For most indoor, winter-dormant varieties, watering once every three to four weeks is sufficient, or only when the leaves show slight signs of wrinkling. If the temperature is consistently below 50°F, it is safer to withhold water completely to avoid rot.
Adequate light provision is another major adjustment, especially for indoor succulents that lose access to the intensity of summer sun. Shorter winter days and light blocked by windows can lead to etiolation, where the plant stretches unnaturally in search of light. Placing the plant in the brightest available south-facing window helps maintain the plant’s compact shape. Supplementing with a full-spectrum grow light for 10 to 14 hours a day is also effective.
Strategic relocation is critical for tender plants that cannot survive frost. Before the first expected freeze, all tender potted succulents must be moved indoors to a protected, cool, but well-lit area. For hardy varieties left outdoors, ensuring they are planted in extremely well-draining soil is paramount. Protection from excessive winter rain or snowmelt is necessary, as dry cold is less damaging than wet cold.
Identifying and Treating Cold Damage
Even with preventative measures, succulents can sometimes suffer damage from unexpected cold snaps or moisture issues. The first visual signs of frost damage are leaves that appear water-soaked, turn translucent, or feel mushy to the touch. This indicates that the cell walls have burst, and the affected tissue is dead. Discoloration, such as blackening or browning, will follow as the damaged tissue dries out.
Treatment begins with patience and observation. Move the plant to a warmer location out of direct sunlight and wait until the extent of the damage is clearly visible. Once the damaged sections have dried, use a clean, sharp blade to trim away all dead parts. If the main stem or rosette is compromised, attempt propagation from any healthy, undamaged leaves or stem cuttings.