Succulents are a diverse group of plants defined by their ability to store water in specialized tissue, typically in their leaves, stems, or roots, making them exceptionally drought-tolerant. Whether a succulent revives after winter depends entirely on its genetic tolerance for cold temperatures and the severity of the exposure it experienced. Survival hinges on whether the plant is classified as hardy or tender, and if the freezing event caused irreparable damage to its water-filled cells.
The Critical Difference Between Hardy and Tender Succulents
A succulent’s ability to survive a cold season is determined by its native environment, leading to the designation of either “hardy” or “tender.” Hardy succulents originated in mountainous or cold-weather regions and have evolved to withstand freezing temperatures, often surviving well below 0°F. These plants, including genera such as Sempervivum (Hens and Chicks) and many Sedum (Stonecrop) species, typically enter dormancy. This process slows growth and conserves energy, protecting them from the cold.
Tender succulents are native to warm, arid climates where temperatures rarely drop below freezing. These varieties, including popular genera like Echeveria, Crassula (Jade Plant), and Kalanchoe, cannot tolerate temperatures below 32°F and sustain damage from even a light frost. The water stored within their plump leaves and stems is their greatest vulnerability during freezing weather. If the temperature remains below freezing for an extended period, the moisture inside the cells expands, causing the cell walls to rupture and killing the tissue.
Identifying the Signs of Cold and Frost Damage
When freezing occurs, the first signs of damage often become visible as the plant begins to thaw. The most common sign of lethal cold exposure is a soft, translucent, or mushy appearance in the leaves and stems. This texture results from the plant’s internal cells bursting due to the expansion of frozen water, which destroys the tissue’s structural integrity.
Plant tissue damaged by frost may appear discolored, turning black, dark brown, or yellow as the tissue dies. While some hardy varieties exhibit temporary color changes, such as a reddish or purplish tint, as a stress response, soft, blackened areas indicate permanent damage. In some cases, the foliage may look wilted or shriveled, similar to severe dehydration. However, this appearance is actually a sign of collapsed cellular structure, not a need for water.
Strategies for Post-Winter Assessment and Revival
A full assessment of cold damage should be delayed until the danger of frost has completely passed and the weather is consistently warmer, ideally until early spring. Observing the plant for a week or two allows the full extent of the damage to become clear, as the dead tissue will dry out or become discolored. Succulent recovery depends entirely on whether the central growing point, or the root crown, has survived the cold spell.
Once the damaged areas are clearly defined, all soft, mushy, or blackened tissue must be carefully pruned away using a sharp, sterilized knife or shears. Cuts must be made into healthy, firm, and green tissue to prevent the spread of rot-causing bacteria or fungi into the rest of the plant. The remaining plant should be placed in a bright area with indirect light and allowed to heal, or “callous over,” for several days before resuming a minimal watering schedule.
If the main body of the plant is completely lost, a thorough check of the base and roots may still reveal firm, white, or green tissue that can produce new growth. Furthermore, any healthy leaves or offsets that were protected from the cold can be salvaged and used for propagation. This technique allows for the creation of new plants from the healthy genetic material of the original.
Preventing Future Winter Damage
Proactive measures are the most reliable method for ensuring succulent survival through future cold periods. For tender varieties, the most effective strategy is to move them indoors before the first predicted frost, ideally when nighttime temperatures drop consistently below 40°F. They should be placed in a cool, bright location, such as a sheltered porch or a sunny window, to encourage winter dormancy.
For outdoor plants, reducing water intake significantly during the fall months is important, as drier soil has a lower freezing point and encourages natural dormancy. Cold-hardy succulents benefit from a well-draining soil composition, since cold, wet roots are highly susceptible to rot and frost damage. Temporary protection, such as draping a breathable frost cloth or old sheet over the plants, can provide a few degrees of insulation. This covering should be removed during the day to prevent overheating.