The question of when strawberry plants will first produce fruit is common for new gardeners. While some varieties can produce a limited harvest in their initial season, the general recommendation is to dedicate the first year to developing a strong, healthy plant. This establishment phase ensures a much larger and more productive harvest in subsequent years. Understanding the plant’s type helps determine the best approach to first-year care.
Understanding Strawberry Plant Types
The answer to whether a strawberry plant will fruit in its first year depends largely on its genetic classification, which dictates its flowering pattern. The most widely planted are June-bearing varieties, which set flower buds during the short days of late summer and fall. These varieties produce a single, large crop over a two-to-three-week period the following spring and are not expected to yield fruit in the first year.
Everbearing plants produce two smaller crops per year: one in late spring and a second in late summer or early fall. Day-neutral strawberries are the third major type, often considered an improved version of everbearing types because they are not strongly influenced by day length. Day-neutral varieties can flower and set fruit continuously throughout the growing season when temperatures are between roughly 35 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Both everbearing and day-neutral types can produce fruit in the first year, though their yields will be smaller than in subsequent seasons. Day-neutral varieties, in particular, are known to produce a good yield in the initial year if managed correctly.
The Importance of Removing First-Year Flowers
Regardless of the plant type, the most beneficial action a gardener can take in the first year is to remove the initial set of flowers. Allowing a young plant to produce fruit forces it to divert energy away from establishing a robust root and crown system. Fruit development is metabolically expensive, requiring resources that would otherwise be used to build a strong foundation.
Pinching off the first flowers directs the plant’s energy toward vegetative growth. This results in larger, stronger root systems and a more vigorous crown, which is the base where flower buds form for the following year’s crop. For June-bearing varieties, all flowers should be removed throughout the entire first growing season.
For everbearing and day-neutral plants, remove all blossoms until early to mid-summer, typically around July 1st. After this initial period, the plant is usually established enough to support a small, late-season harvest without significantly impacting its long-term health. This practice ensures a larger and healthier harvest in the second year and beyond.
Preparing for the Second Year’s Harvest
After the first season of establishment, the focus shifts to long-term bed management and winter preparation. Strawberry plants naturally produce runners, which are horizontal stems that grow along the ground and form new daughter plants. Managing these runners is important for maintaining a healthy patch.
Runner Management
The matted row system, often used for June-bearing varieties, allows runners to root and fill in the rows, creating a dense bed. Conversely, the hill system, typically preferred for everbearing and day-neutral plants, requires removing all runners. Removing runners directs the plant’s energy into producing multiple crowns and larger fruit on the original mother plants.
Winter Protection
As temperatures drop, strawberry plants need protection to prevent damage to the crowns and developing flower buds. After the first few hard frosts, and before the ground freezes solid, apply a layer of winter mulch over the bed. Clean straw or pine needles, loosely applied to a depth of three to six inches, insulates the plants and protects them from damaging freeze-thaw cycles.