The sudden appearance of freshly dug holes and disappearing blooms is a common frustration for gardeners anticipating the first signs of spring. The primary suspect behind these excavated spots and missing crocus flowers is the neighborhood squirrel, which is often drawn to the newly planted bulbs beneath the surface. Understanding this garden pest interaction is the first step toward protecting these delicate early-season flowers.
Confirming Squirrel Damage to Crocus
Squirrels readily consume crocus bulbs, viewing them as a calorie-rich food source. The bulbs of common varieties, such as Crocus vernus, contain starches and carbohydrates that provide a high-energy meal for foraging rodents. This makes the newly planted area highly attractive, particularly in the fall when squirrels are actively caching food.
The method of damage offers a clear distinction between squirrels and other bulb-eating pests like voles. A squirrel’s presence is confirmed by a shallow, circular hole about two inches wide, often with disturbed soil scattered around the perimeter. They usually dig up the entire bulb, sometimes eating only part of it or discarding the remnants nearby. Voles, by contrast, tunnel underground and consume the bulb entirely from below, leaving no obvious surface disturbance.
Squirrels are attracted to areas of loose, freshly turned soil, which signals an easy place to dig. The scent of disturbed earth, combined with the mild, nutty smell of the crocus corm itself, acts as an invitation. Eliminating the visual and olfactory cues that indicate recent planting is an immediate measure to reduce the risk of excavation.
Deterring Squirrels Through Planting Techniques
One effective strategy is to plant the crocus bulbs deeper than the standard recommendation of three or four inches. Increasing the planting depth to six to eight inches makes the bulb less accessible and reduces the chance that a surface-digging squirrel will encounter it. Planting them slightly deeper does not inhibit their growth.
Mixing crocus bulbs with those naturally distasteful to rodents is another passive defense. Squirrels generally avoid bulbs from the Narcissus genus, such as daffodils, because they contain the toxic alkaloid lycorine. Planting a layer of crocus bulbs and then surrounding or topping the area with daffodils creates a chemical barrier that deters foraging.
Gardeners should be cautious about using certain soil amendments during planting, notably bone meal. The scent of bone meal, derived from animal products, can be highly attractive to rodents, including squirrels. Using a balanced, unscented granular fertilizer instead prevents the introduction of a scent that might lure them directly to the planting site. Removing all papery bulb tunics and debris from the planting area also cleans up any residual scent clues left on the surface.
Physical Barriers and Repellents
For freshly planted areas, a simple and highly effective deterrent is the use of a physical barrier. A piece of chicken wire or hardware cloth can be cut to cover the entire planting bed and then secured to the ground with garden stakes or heavy stones. The mesh size is large enough to allow the crocus shoots to grow through in the spring but prevents squirrels from digging down to the bulbs.
This wire barrier should be covered with a light layer of mulch or soil to conceal it from view. The barrier can be removed once the ground freezes hard, or it can be left in place until the bulbs begin to sprout. Incorporating elements like crushed oyster shells or coarse gravel around and above the bulbs creates an unpleasant texture for a squirrel’s paws, which can also deter digging.
Topical repellents offer a secondary line of defense, often relying on strong scents or tastes that squirrels find offensive. Sprays containing capsaicin, the compound that gives chili peppers their heat, can be applied to the soil surface to discourage foraging. These products, or even a generous dusting of cayenne pepper flakes, work by irritating the squirrel’s sensitive nose and mouth. However, these deterrents require reapplication, especially after rain or heavy watering, to maintain their effectiveness.