Roma tomatoes are prized for their dense flesh and low moisture content, making them ideal for sauces and pastes. When planning a garden, one of the first questions a grower faces is whether this specific type of plant requires a trellis or other support structure to thrive. The necessity for support is dictated by the variety’s natural growth and fruiting habits.
Understanding Roma Tomato Growth Habits
Tomato varieties are broadly categorized by their growth patterns. Roma tomatoes are classified as a determinate variety, meaning their main stem reaches a genetically determined height and then terminates in a flower cluster. This results in a more compact, bush-like plant that does not continue to vine and elongate throughout the growing season.
The concentrated growth habit means the majority of the fruit ripens within a relatively short period, often over a two-week span. Although the plant remains shorter, this heavy, simultaneous fruit set places immense stress on the stems and branches. A single Roma plant can easily carry several pounds of fruit, causing the limbs to bend, crack, or break under the combined weight.
Allowing the fruit to rest on the soil surface is detrimental to plant health. Contact with wet earth increases the risk of soil-borne diseases and pests, such as blights and slugs, which can quickly ruin the entire crop. Therefore, Romas need support to lift the developing fruit off the ground, even though they do not require the continuous vertical structure of vining types.
Choosing the Right Support Structure
Because Roma tomatoes are determinate and stop growing vertically at a manageable height, the tall, elaborate trellises used for vining tomatoes are unnecessary. Instead, the support strategy should focus on providing lateral stability and vertical lift for the compact, heavy plant structure. Two methods are widely preferred for managing the bushy habit of determinate varieties: staking and caging.
Staking
Staking involves driving a sturdy pole, often wood or metal, into the ground near the main stem of the plant. As the tomato grows, the main stem and heavily laden branches are manually tied to the stake using soft material like fabric strips or specialized garden twine. This technique is highly effective for keeping the entire plant upright and optimizing air circulation around the foliage. However, staking requires ongoing maintenance to ensure the ties are secure and not girdling the stem.
Caging
Tomato caging provides a more self-sufficient support system for the determinate Roma. A robust, wire cage encircles the plant, allowing the branches to grow outward and rest on the horizontal wire rungs. This structure supports the plant mass in three dimensions, distributing the concentrated weight of the fruit across multiple points.
Caging is beneficial because it minimizes the need for frequent tying and provides superior support for the numerous, heavy side branches characteristic of the Roma growth habit. When selecting a cage, choosing one made from thick, rigid wire is important, as the flimsy, inverted cone cages commonly sold often buckle under the weight of a mature, fruit-heavy Roma plant.
Best Practices for Installation and Ongoing Care
Stakes or cages should be placed around the plant immediately after transplanting the seedling into the garden soil, or certainly before the plant reaches about 12 to 18 inches in height. Early installation prevents accidental damage to the roots, which can spread surprisingly wide, and ensures the support is stable before the plant begins its rapid growth and fruit set.
Regardless of whether a stake or a cage is used, the support must be inserted deeply into the ground, penetrating at least 12 inches into the soil. This depth provides the necessary anchorage to withstand strong winds and the significant leverage exerted by a fully loaded plant. Without proper anchoring, the entire structure can lean or collapse once the fruit reaches maturity.
Ongoing care for determinate types like the Roma involves minimal pruning techniques. Unlike indeterminate varieties, heavy removal of suckers—the small shoots that emerge between the main stem and a leaf branch—is discouraged. Removing suckers on a determinate plant can significantly reduce the overall yield, as many fruit clusters form on these secondary stems. Instead, focus on removing only dead, yellowing, or diseased leaves, particularly those closest to the base, to improve air flow.