The most common household orchids, like the popular Phalaenopsis or moth orchid, are perennial plants capable of reblooming year after year. The initial purchase bloom is the end of a long growth cycle, and the plant simply enters a resting phase after the flowers drop. Coaxing an orchid to rebloom requires replicating the natural environmental cues that signal the plant to produce a new flower spike. This process involves a period of recovery followed by specific adjustments to temperature, light, and feeding.
Understanding the Orchid Bloom Cycle
Orchids follow a predictable life cycle that alternates between periods of vegetative growth and seasonal flowering. After the initial display, the plant enters a vegetative stage lasting six to nine months, focusing energy on developing new leaves and roots. This recovery time is necessary for the plant to gather resources to support the energy-intensive process of producing a new flower spike.
Individual flowers on a healthy spike often last for an extended period, sometimes up to several months. Once the last flower fades, the plant has completed its flowering season on that specific spike. The plant itself is long-lived, and its ability to flower again relies on this annual cycle of growth, rest, and re-initiation.
Post-Bloom Care and Spike Management
Once the last flower has dropped, attention must shift immediately to managing the spent flower spike. This is a practical step that influences the plant’s health and its timeline for reblooming. The physical appearance of the spike dictates the best course of action for pruning.
If the entire flower spike has turned yellow or brown, it has died back and should be removed entirely. Cut the dead spike about an inch above the base of the plant to prevent wasting energy on non-viable tissue. This complete removal encourages the orchid to focus on root and leaf growth, leading to a stronger plant for future blooms.
If the spike remains green and healthy after the flowers fade, a different approach may encourage a secondary, smaller bloom. Locate the triangular nodes, or small bumps, along the green spike and cut the stem about a half-inch above the second node up from the base. This cut may stimulate a lateral offshoot spike from the node, which can flower again within a few months.
It is important to use sterilized tools, such as a razor blade or sharp clippers, to prevent introducing disease into the open wound. Sanitize the instrument with rubbing alcohol before cutting to protect the plant’s health. Complete removal is the safest option for long-term plant health.
Environmental Triggers for Reblooming
The most important factor in stimulating a new flower spike is providing a change in temperature. Orchids need a distinct temperature differential between day and night for several weeks to initiate flowering. This mimics the cooler autumn nights in their native environment, signaling that the time for flowering is approaching.
A drop of approximately 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit between daytime and nighttime temperatures is required. Ideal conditions involve daytime temperatures in the 70 to 80-degree range, followed by a nightly drop to between 55 and 65 degrees. Placing the orchid near a naturally cooler window, while avoiding cold drafts, can achieve this necessary temperature manipulation.
Light exposure is essential, as insufficient light is a common reason for reblooming failure. Orchids require bright, indirect light for 10 to 12 hours a day to generate the energy needed to produce a spike. East-facing windows are often ideal, providing morning sun without the harsh intensity of direct afternoon light.
During the period when the plant is being coaxed into spiking, a change in fertilizer is helpful. While the plant is growing vegetatively, a balanced fertilizer is suitable. Switching to a formula higher in phosphorus, often called a “bloom booster,” can help promote flower bud development. Apply this fertilizer at a diluted strength every two to four weeks, maintaining consistent watering practices.