The fate of an orchid’s flower stem, commonly called a flower spike, after blooming depends entirely on the specific type of orchid. Understanding the plant’s growth habit is the most important factor in determining the correct post-bloom care. This care directly impacts the plant’s future health and reblooming potential.
Why the Answer Depends on Orchid Type
The primary distinction lies in whether the orchid’s growth habit results in a persistent or deciduous spike. Phalaenopsis orchids, often known as Moth Orchids, are the most common exception because they produce persistent flower spikes. If these spikes remain green and healthy, they possess dormant nodes that can potentially produce a secondary branch of flowers or a small plantlet called a keiki.
Conversely, the majority of other popular orchids, including Cattleya, Dendrobium, and Oncidium, produce deciduous spikes designed to die back. After the blooms drop, the plant begins the physiological process of senescence in the spike. This involves the plant reabsorbing nutrients and moisture back into the main body or pseudobulb, causing the spike to turn yellow, then brown, and eventually dry out completely.
Handling Spikes That Can Rebloom
For orchids with persistent spikes, such as Phalaenopsis hybrids, growers have several choices once the last flower has fallen.
Option 1: Leaving the Spike Intact
One option is to leave the green spike alone, allowing the plant to potentially rebloom from the tip or a lower node at its own pace. However, this reblooming process can take a significant amount of the plant’s energy. This may result in smaller flowers or slower overall growth of the leaves and roots.
Option 2: Cutting Back to a Node
A second common approach is to cut the green spike back to encourage a new, secondary bloom. Using a sterilized cutting tool, locate a dormant node, which appears as a triangular, sheath-covered bump on the spike. By making a clean cut approximately one inch above the second or third node from the base, you stimulate the tissue within that node to potentially develop a secondary flower stem. This method can accelerate the next flush of blooms.
Option 3: Removing the Entire Spike
The third option is to cut the entire spike off near the base, even if it is still green. This is recommended if the orchid is not vigorous or if the grower wants the plant to focus its energy on producing new roots and leaves for a stronger display in the next seasonal bloom cycle. If the spike begins to turn yellow or brown at any point, it should be removed completely to prevent potential rot and infection.
Removing Spikes That Die Back
For orchids whose spikes are programmed to die back, like Cattleya or Oncidium, the post-bloom decision is simpler. After the flowers fade and drop, the plant naturally begins reallocating resources away from the spike. The spike will progressively turn brown, dry, and shrivel, indicating the plant has reclaimed all usable stored energy and moisture.
The most beneficial action is to wait until the spike has fully dried and turned brown, which minimizes the wound left on the plant. Once fully senesced, the dead spike should be cut with a sterile cutting instrument close to the base of the plant or the pseudobulb. Removing this dead tissue is important because a decaying spike can become a conduit for bacterial or fungal pathogens to enter the healthy plant tissue. This removal allows the plant to fully enter its vegetative growth period, conserving resources to build stronger pseudobulbs and roots.