Textile processing chemicals are a broad group of substances used throughout the entire manufacturing supply chain, from preparing raw fibers to the final finishing processes on a garment. These substances are applied to nearly all clothing items, regardless of whether they are made from natural fibers like cotton or synthetic materials such as polyester. Chemical treatments are used globally in clothing production to ensure that fabrics meet specific performance and aesthetic standards demanded by consumers.
Why Chemicals are Used in Textile Manufacturing
Textile chemicals are functionally necessary to transform raw fiber into the durable, colorful, and easy-to-care-for clothing people expect. One primary use is achieving colorfastness, where chemical auxiliaries help dyes penetrate the fibers evenly and remain vibrant despite repeated washing or exposure to light. Without these agents, colors would quickly fade or bleed onto other materials.
Chemical treatments are also applied to impart desirable functional properties to the finished garment. Consumers seek clothing that resists wrinkles, repels water, or remains stain-free, and these features are achieved through chemical finishing. Biocides and fungicides are often applied to clothing destined for long-distance international shipping to prevent the growth of mold or mildew in humid storage conditions.
These chemicals ensure that garments maintain their shape and integrity from the factory floor to the store shelf and into the consumer’s wardrobe. For example, treatments allow a shirt to be labeled as “permanent press,” meaning it was chemically treated to retain a smooth appearance without the need for ironing.
Key Categories of Processing Chemicals
One of the most extensive categories of chemicals found on clothing is dyes and pigments, which include groups like Azo dyes and Disperse dyes. Azo dyes are widely used for achieving bright colors but can sometimes break down into aromatic amines, which are restricted in many parts of the world. Disperse dyes are primarily used for coloring synthetic fibers like polyester and are known to remain in the finished textile.
Formaldehyde resins are frequently used to create wrinkle-resistant and anti-shrink finishes on fabrics, particularly cotton and cotton blends. These resins cross-link the cellulose fibers, which helps the fabric hold its shape and gives the new clothes their characteristic “chemical smell.” While effective for easy care, residual formaldehyde can remain on the garment.
Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs) are used to provide water- and stain-repellent properties to clothing, such as outerwear and performance wear. These compounds are highly stable and persistent, earning them the nickname “forever chemicals” due to their resistance to breaking down. Biocides often contain quaternary ammonium compounds or similar substances to inhibit microbial growth during shipping and storage.
Heavy metals can be present in finished textiles, usually as residual contaminants from the dyeing or tanning processes. Metals like lead, chromium, and antimony may be used as stabilizers or fixatives for certain dyes. These substances are typically present in trace amounts.
Potential Health Effects of Chemical Residue
The chemical residues present on new clothing interact with the human body primarily through two main exposure routes: direct contact with the skin and inhalation of volatile compounds. The most common reaction is contact dermatitis, which manifests as skin irritation, rashes, or allergic reactions. This is often linked to residual formaldehyde or certain disperse dyes that leach out of the fabric when the skin sweats.
The skin acts as a barrier, but it can also absorb chemicals, especially those that are fat-soluble or water-soluble. For instance, some dyes and residual processing agents are classified as sensitizers, meaning they can cause an allergic response after repeated exposure.
Inhalation is another route of exposure, particularly when new clothes are first removed from packaging or are stored in enclosed spaces. The distinct odor sometimes noticed is due to off-gassing, where Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) like residual formaldehyde evaporate into the air. This off-gassing can cause irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, and may trigger respiratory symptoms in sensitive individuals.
Practical Steps for Minimizing Exposure
The most immediate and practical step a consumer can take is to wash new clothes before wearing them for the first time. Washing removes a significant portion of the surface-level chemical residues, excess dyes, and finishing agents that may cause skin irritation. Multiple washes may be necessary to fully eliminate the strongest residues and the associated chemical odor.
New garments, especially those with a noticeable smell, benefit from a period of ventilation before being worn or stored in a closet. Hanging the items outdoors or in a well-aired room allows Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) to off-gas and dissipate, reducing the potential for inhalation exposure.
When shopping, consumers can look for textiles that carry certifications indicating reduced harmful chemical content. Certifications like OEKO-TEX Standard 100 verify that every component of the textile, from thread to buttons, has been tested for a list of harmful substances. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) also restricts the use of toxic chemicals throughout the entire production process.
Considering the material composition of a garment can also help reduce exposure, as natural fibers generally require fewer synthetic finishing chemicals than performance-oriented synthetics. Choosing materials like organic cotton or linen may lower the overall chemical load compared to fabrics treated for extreme water or wrinkle resistance.