Groundhogs, also known as woodchucks, are common across North America and are skilled at excavation. These large rodents are notorious for their extensive digging habits, which frequently bring them into conflict with homeowners. The presence of a groundhog in a residential setting almost always means a burrow is nearby, often located near structures like decks, sheds, or foundations. Their tunneling activity can cause significant disruption to yards and gardens, making them a top nuisance animal for property owners.
Confirming the Groundhog Burrow
Identifying a groundhog burrow requires noting specific physical characteristics that differentiate it from the work of other digging animals. The main entrance to a groundhog’s home is typically large, ranging between 8 and 12 inches in diameter. This primary entrance is almost always marked by a large mound of loose, excavated soil, known as a spoil pile, directly outside the opening.
These animals prefer to dig their homes in locations that offer some level of overhead protection or cover. Common burrow sites include areas beneath porches, sheds, decks, and woodpiles, or along fence lines and dense shrubbery. They rarely dig a central entrance in the middle of a wide-open lawn where they would be exposed to predators.
A groundhog burrow system includes one or more auxiliary entrances, often called “plunge holes.” These secondary entrances are usually less visible, sometimes merely a hole without the large spoil pile, and serve as quick escape routes. Look for these multiple holes and the large, fan-shaped mound of dirt near the most used entrance to confirm groundhog activity.
The Purpose of Groundhog Digging
The extensive digging performed by a groundhog is not random but is driven by several fundamental biological needs. The burrows they create are complex, multi-chambered residences that can stretch up to 30 feet long and are used throughout the year. These underground networks provide continuous shelter from predators, such as foxes and coyotes, allowing the groundhog to spend most of its time safely out of sight.
The burrow is also engineered to serve as a nursery where the female raises her young in a protected environment. The groundhog is one of the few true hibernators, and the burrow is its headquarters for winter survival. The tunnels are dug deep, often four to six feet down, to reach below the frost line, ensuring stable temperatures for hibernation.
The structures feature separate areas for specific functions, including nesting chambers and designated latrine areas. The careful architectural design, which involves an initial downward slope followed by an upward incline, helps prevent the tunnels from flooding. Groundhogs constantly expand or maintain these semi-permanent homes, requiring them to move significant amounts of soil.
Strategies for Prevention and Removal
Addressing a groundhog problem involves a combination of exclusion, habitat modification, and, if necessary, safe removal. Long-term success is best achieved by making the property physically unappealing and inaccessible to these persistent diggers.
Exclusion is the most effective preventative measure and involves installing physical barriers around vulnerable areas. To protect structures like decks or sheds, a barrier of heavy-gauge wire mesh or hardware cloth should be securely fastened to the base. This mesh must be buried 10 to 12 inches deep and then bent outward in an “L-shape” to create a horizontal apron under the soil. This L-shaped flange prevents the groundhog from digging directly underneath the barrier, forcing them to move on.
For garden protection, fences should be at least three feet high, with the bottom edge also buried a foot into the ground. Habitat modification also helps by removing potential attractants, such as fallen fruit, and eliminating dense cover or debris piles where the animals might seek refuge. Keeping the grass trimmed and reducing clutter removes easy places for a groundhog to start a new burrow.
Deterrents can be used to make an area less desirable, but their effectiveness is often limited and requires consistent reapplication. Commercial or homemade repellents, such as those containing castor oil or strong scents like garlic or cayenne pepper, can be sprayed near burrow entrances. Motion-activated sprinklers may also be deployed, as the sudden burst of water and movement can startle and discourage the animals from lingering in the area.
If exclusion and deterrents fail, trapping and removal may be necessary, but this requires careful attention to local laws. Many jurisdictions have specific regulations regarding the trapping and relocation of wildlife, especially concerning pregnant females. Live traps, often baited with apples or cantaloupe, can be used to capture the animal humanely. It is best to consult a professional wildlife control service for persistent issues, as they can ensure legal compliance and safely remove and exclude the animal from the property.