Freesias are celebrated for their intensely sweet fragrance and graceful, trumpet-shaped blooms, making them a popular choice for gardens and floral arrangements. These striking flowers, which are native to South Africa, grow from underground storage organs called corms. The question of whether freesias will return to bloom each year depends entirely on the climate conditions they face during their dormant winter period.
Freesias and Climate Hardiness
Freesias are classified as tender perennials, meaning their corms can live for more than two years but cannot survive freezing temperatures. Their native South African habitat features cool, rainy winters followed by hot, dry summers when the corms go dormant. This natural cycle means the corm is not built to withstand hard frost.
The survival of freesia corms outdoors is determined by the local climate, specifically referencing USDA Plant Hardiness Zones. Freesias are reliably winter-hardy only in Zones 9 through 11, where ground temperatures rarely fall below freezing. Gardeners in these warmer regions can leave the corms in the soil year-round, allowing them to return naturally each spring.
In colder regions, specifically Zones 8 and below, the corm will not survive the winter if left in the ground. Moisture and sub-freezing temperatures combine to rot and destroy the tender tissue. In these climates, freesias must be treated as annuals, requiring fresh planting each year, or the gardener must intervene to protect the corms from the winter elements.
Ensuring Freesias Return Through Winter Storage
For gardeners outside of mild climates, ensuring freesias return requires lifting and storing the corms indoors for the winter. This practice mimics the dry, warm dormancy period the corms experience naturally during the hot summer months in their native environment. The process begins once the foliage has completely withered and turned yellow, indicating the corm has stored enough energy for the next growing season.
Before the first hard frost, the corms should be carefully dug up and allowed to dry, or “cure,” in a warm, sheltered location for several days. This curing process is important because it helps to heal any small wounds and dry excess moisture, which prevents fungal rot during storage. Once cured, gently remove the old, shriveled corm base and any remaining debris, leaving the plump, new corm and its offsets.
Proper storage is the next step to preserve the corms until the following spring. Freesia corms have a unique requirement for a warm dormancy to prepare them for flowering. They should be stored at a warm temperature, ideally around 77 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit, for an extended period of 14 to 20 weeks. This heat treatment is what triggers the corm to form flower buds for the next season.
Store the corms in a breathable medium like dry peat moss, sand, or simply a paper bag or netting, ensuring good air circulation. A location like a warm, dry utility room or a closet near a heat source is often suitable to maintain the required warmth. Replanting should occur in the spring, after the danger of the final frost has passed and the soil has begun to warm, ensuring the cycle of growth and bloom can begin again.
Seasonal Care for Healthy Freesia Corms
The ability of a freesia corm to survive dormancy and bloom again is heavily dependent on the care it receives during its active growing season. Planting depth is important, with corms typically placed only 1 to 2 inches deep in well-drained soil, pointed end facing upward. This shallow planting encourages the corm to sprout efficiently and establish its root system.
During the period of active growth, the plants require consistent moisture, but overwatering must be avoided, as the corms are susceptible to rot in soggy conditions. Once the young plants reach a height of about six inches and flower buds begin to form, a regular feeding schedule should be implemented. A liquid fertilizer high in potassium or potash is beneficial, applied every one to two weeks, to support healthy flower development and strengthen the developing corm.
The most important step for long-term corm health occurs after the flowers fade. The spent flower stems should be cut back, but the green, sword-like foliage must be left completely intact. The leaves continue to photosynthesize, using sunlight to produce and transfer energy (sugars) down to the corm to recharge it for the next season. Prematurely cutting the foliage will starve the corm, resulting in a weak plant that is unlikely to flower the following year. Watering and feeding should only be stopped once the foliage has naturally withered and turned yellow or brown, signaling the corm has fully entered its dormant phase.