Ficus lyrata, commonly known as the Fiddle Leaf Fig, is a tropical species native to the rainforests of western Africa. Unlike temperate-zone plants that undergo deep dormancy, the Fiddle Leaf Fig does not halt all growth in response to cold weather. When kept indoors during the colder months, it experiences a necessary period of reduced metabolic activity, often referred to as a “resting period.” This slowdown is primarily a reaction to decreased light intensity and shorter day lengths common in winter.
The Fiddle Leaf Fig’s Resting Period
The resting period is a physiological adaptation where the plant slows its growth to conserve energy. This metabolic deceleration is triggered when the available light drops below the optimal level needed to support active photosynthesis and leaf production. Since indoor light levels can be dramatically lower in winter, the plant naturally shifts its resources away from new growth.
During this time, the plant’s need for water and nutrients decreases substantially because its cellular processes are operating at a lower rate. This slowdown makes the root system particularly vulnerable to issues like root rot, as the plant cannot efficiently absorb excess moisture from the potting medium. The plant may cease producing new leaves entirely, and any existing growth will be very slow.
Adjusting Watering and Fertilization During Winter
The single most common mistake during the resting period is maintaining a summer watering schedule, which quickly leads to root problems. The plant’s reduced rate of water uptake means the soil stays wet for much longer, depriving the roots of the oxygen they need. To prevent this, you must significantly reduce the frequency of watering, allowing the soil to dry out more deeply than you would during the warmer growing season.
Wait until the top two to four inches of soil are completely dry before watering again, or until the soil is dry about 50-75% of the way down the pot. When you do water, soak the soil thoroughly until water drains from the bottom, then promptly empty the saucer so the plant is never sitting in standing water. Fertilization should be halted entirely during the resting period, as the plant is not actively growing. Feeding a resting plant can cause a harmful buildup of mineral salts in the soil, which can burn the roots and lead to leaf damage.
Telling the Difference Between Rest and Plant Distress
It is important to distinguish the normal winter slowdown from symptoms of actual health problems, as both can involve leaf discoloration or dropping. A resting Fiddle Leaf Fig might show a slight overall reduction in leaf glossiness and a complete lack of new growth. It should not exhibit widespread yellowing or excessive leaf drop. The loss of a single, older, lower leaf may occur, but dramatic leaf shedding is almost always a sign of shock, usually due to watering issues or a sudden temperature change.
Root rot, caused by overwatering during the resting period, is often indicated by dark brown or black spots that appear on the leaves, especially near the center or along the veins. The leaves may also feel mushy or limp, and this condition usually affects the lower, older leaves first. In contrast, signs of underwatering include crispy, brown edges and tips on the leaves. Pests like spider mites thrive in the dry indoor air of winter, and their presence may be detected by fine webbing or tiny spots on the undersides of the leaves.
Preparing the Plant for Spring Growth
As the days begin to lengthen and light intensity increases, usually toward the end of winter or early spring, the Fiddle Leaf Fig will naturally prepare to exit its resting period. This transition is marked by the first signs of swelling buds or the appearance of a tiny new leaf. This is the signal to gradually increase your care routine.
Begin by slightly increasing the frequency of watering, checking the soil less deeply for dryness than you did in mid-winter. Once new, steady growth is clearly visible, you can reintroduce fertilization. Start with a diluted amount of a balanced liquid fertilizer, perhaps at half-strength, and then work your way up to a full, regular feeding schedule as the plant enters its active growing season. This gradual ramp-up ensures the plant has the energy and resources it needs for the rapid new growth.