Camellias are evergreen shrubs known for their glossy, deep-green foliage and striking blooms that appear during winter and spring. These popular plants bring color to temperate climates when other ornamentals are dormant. Successfully cultivating camellias depends on understanding their specific light requirements.
The Ideal Light Conditions
Camellias do not tolerate the intensity of full, direct sunlight, especially during the hottest part of the day. Intense afternoon sun is detrimental and frequently leads to sunscald, where leaves develop scorched, bronzed, or papery brown areas. This damage is most common on the south- or west-facing sides of the plant and on those recently transplanted from shade.
The optimal setting mimics their natural understory habitat, providing dappled or filtered light throughout the day. A site receiving only morning sun, followed by afternoon shade, is ideal. This placement protects the foliage from damaging midday rays while supporting robust growth and abundant flower production.
The two main species, Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua, have different light tolerances. C. japonica varieties prefer more shade and struggle with too much direct sun. C. sasanqua is more sun-tolerant and can adapt to full sun once established, especially in cooler regions. Insufficient light leads to sparse flowering, while excessive sun can bleach the flower color.
Soil Structure and Hydration Needs
Camellias are acid-loving plants, performing best in slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5 to 6.5). This acidity facilitates the absorption of micronutrients like iron, which become unavailable in alkaline soil and cause yellowing leaves. A soil test confirms the pH level, allowing for amendments like peat moss or aged pine bark to increase acidity.
Proper drainage is equally important, as camellias cannot tolerate “wet feet” or perpetually soggy soil. Poor drainage causes root rot, a fungal disease that can quickly kill the plant. The soil should be well-draining yet retain consistent moisture, achieved by incorporating organic matter like leaf mold or shredded bark.
To maintain soil balance, apply a two to four-inch layer of organic mulch, such as pine straw or shredded bark, around the base of the shrub. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature, suppresses weeds, and retains moisture. Keep the mulch several inches away from the main stem to prevent moisture buildup and potential collar rot.
Protecting Camellias from Environmental Stress
Most camellia varieties thrive in USDA hardiness zones 7 through 9, where winter temperatures are mild. Breeders have developed cold-hardy varieties, such as the ‘Winter’ or ‘April’ series, which survive in Zone 6, tolerating lows down to about -15 degrees Fahrenheit. In colder climates, planting in a location that provides winter shade, like a north- or northwest-facing spot, helps reduce cold damage.
A late spring frost is a significant threat, severely damaging new growth and developing flower buds, especially after warm weather. Protecting plants from strong, desiccating winds is beneficial, as high air movement quickly dries out leaves when the ground is frozen. Planting near a wall or under a tree canopy provides shelter from both wind and temperature extremes.
Extreme summer heat can stress the plant, even when shaded. During prolonged dry or hot spells, supplemental watering is necessary. Consistent hydration is crucial for the formation of the next season’s flower buds, which occurs starting mid-summer. Young or newly transplanted camellias are vulnerable to heat and cold stress until their root systems are established.
Basic Maintenance for Healthy Growth
Routine care centers on appropriate fertilization and timely pruning once the plant is established. Camellias benefit from a specialized acid-loving plant fertilizer, such as a balanced formula like 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. Fertilizer should be applied in the spring after blooming finishes but before new growth begins.
Stop fertilizing after mid-summer (typically by the end of July). Stimulating new growth too late results in tender shoots easily damaged by early winter frosts. Applying fertilizer in small, frequent doses is preferable to a single heavy application, which can cause root burn, and it should always be watered in thoroughly.
Pruning should be performed immediately after flowering finishes in late winter or early spring. This timing prevents the removal of developing flower buds, which form on new growth in the summer. Pruning should be light, focused on shaping the shrub, removing dead or diseased wood, and thinning the center to improve air circulation and light penetration.
Monitoring for common issues is part of maintenance. Tea scale is a frequent insect pest that settles on the undersides of leaves. Fungal diseases, such as petal blight, cause flowers to turn brown and drop prematurely. Prompt removal of fallen or spent blooms helps limit the spread of this disease.