Caladiums, known for their brilliantly colored, heart-shaped foliage, are tropical plants native to the warm, humid forests of South and Central America. They possess a distinct annual growth cycle driven by a subterranean storage organ called a tuber. Caladiums do go dormant indoors, as this resting period is a necessary biological function.
Understanding the Indoor Dormancy Cycle
This annual resting phase is an evolutionary adaptation that allows the plant to survive the dry season in its native tropical habitat. Even within the stable environment of a home, the Caladium tuber retains this internal clock. The primary trigger for indoor dormancy is the natural reduction in light intensity and duration that occurs during the autumn and winter months.
As the days shorten, the plant slows its photosynthetic activity, signaling that it is time to channel energy back into the tuber. This process allows the tuber to regenerate and consolidate the energy needed to produce lush foliage in the following growing season. A rest period of at least ten weeks is required for the tuber to properly restore itself.
Recognizing the Visual Signs of Rest
The first indication that a Caladium is preparing for its rest is a noticeable slowing of new leaf production. The existing foliage will begin a dramatic process of yellowing and browning, starting with the older, larger leaves. This dieback is a deliberate action as the plant reabsorbs nutrients before shedding them.
You may observe the stems drooping and the overall structure of the plant collapsing as the leaves dry out. This is not a sign of a dying plant or a care mistake, but a natural, healthy transition into the dormant state. The tuber, which contains the life of the plant, remains healthy beneath the soil surface.
Proper Care and Storage During Dormancy
Once the foliage has completely browned and collapsed, care must transition to a preservation mode. Cease watering entirely, allowing the potting mix to dry out. Then, cut the dead or dying leaves back to soil level using clean shears. The tuber can be stored either left in its pot or dug up for bare storage.
If you choose to leave the tuber in the pot, place the container in a dark, dry location for the winter without further watering. For bare storage, gently lift the tuber from the soil, brush off the loose dirt, and allow it to air-dry or “cure” for one to two weeks in a warm area. This curing process helps seal any wounds and prevents rot during storage.
The ideal storage environment should be cool, dry, and dark, with temperatures maintained above freezing, preferably 50°F to 60°F. If you have removed the tuber from the soil, store it nestled in a dry medium like peat moss, vermiculite, or shredded paper within a breathable container. The chosen medium helps prevent the tuber from shriveling during its rest.
How to Successfully Reawaken the Tuber
The transition out of dormancy typically begins in late winter or early spring, around mid-to-late February, to give the tuber a head start before the summer growing season. If you stored the tuber bare, repot it into a container using fresh, well-draining potting mix, planting it with the eyes or growth points facing upward.
If the tuber was stored in its original pot, refresh the top layer of soil with new mix. To stimulate new growth, move the potted tuber to a warm location, ideally maintaining a soil temperature of 60°F to 65°F. Resume light watering, keeping the soil moist but not soggy, as excessive moisture can cause the dormant tuber to rot. Once new sprouts emerge, gradually increase watering and introduce the plant to bright, indirect light.