Bromeliads are popular houseplants, often admired for their vibrant and long-lasting flowers, which can remain colorful for months. While the central bloom of the plant is spectacular, it is a one-time event for the original rosette. The life cycle of this plant is structured so that future flowers are produced by new, smaller plants that emerge from the base of the mother.
Why the Original Plant Will Not Rebloom
The original plant will not produce a second flower due to its biological design. Once the central rosette matures and produces its flower spike, the plant has completed its reproductive cycle, expending a great deal of energy. This signals the beginning of a slow, natural decline for the mother plant.
The plant’s anatomy is also a factor. New leaves grow from the central point of the rosette, and when the flower stalk develops there, it physically prevents any further leaf growth. This structural endpoint means the original rosette will never bloom again. Although the mother plant is fading, it produces offsets, commonly called “pups,” which are the next generation of bloomers.
Propagating Offsets for Future Flowers
The key to continuous bromeliad blooms is successfully propagating the offsets, or pups, that emerge from the base of the aging mother plant. These pups are genetically identical clones and will eventually replace the original plant. They should remain attached to the mother until they are large enough to sustain themselves independently.
A pup is ready for separation once it reaches approximately one-third to one-half the size of the mother plant. Removing the offset when it is too small will significantly slow its growth and reduce the chance of successful establishment. To detach the new plant, use a sharp, sterilized knife to make a clean cut close to the mother plant’s stem. While the pup should ideally have some small roots, it will develop new ones even if it does not.
The newly separated pup should be potted in a small container, usually a four-inch pot, using a lightweight, well-draining potting mix. A mixture designed for orchids or bromeliads works well, since the roots are primarily for anchoring the plant rather than absorbing water and nutrients. Place the new plant in an area that receives bright, indirect light, as direct sun can scorch the leaves.
Watering is focused on the central leaf cup, or “tank,” which should be kept partially filled with fresh water. This tank is how many bromeliads absorb moisture and nutrients. The potting mix itself should be allowed to dry slightly between waterings to prevent root rot, which is important for newly establishing pups. With proper care, the pup will grow to maturity, a process that typically takes one to three years, before it is ready to flower.
Triggering a Bloom Using Simple Methods
A mature pup that has reached full size but has not yet produced a flower can be encouraged to bloom through “forcing.” This technique involves exposing the plant to ethylene gas, a natural plant hormone that triggers the reproductive cycle. The plant must be biologically mature for this method to work, making it necessary to wait for the pup to reach full size.
The most accessible method uses common fruit that naturally releases ethylene gas as it ripens. Place the potted bromeliad, ensuring there is no water in its central cup, inside a clear plastic bag with slices of ripe apple or banana. Seal the bag to trap the gas and keep it in a shaded spot away from direct sunlight for about seven to ten days. Keeping the plant out of the sun prevents the plastic bag from overheating the plant.
After the forcing period, remove the plant from the bag and return it to its normal, bright, indirect light location. The ethylene gas initiates the development of the flower bud, but the appearance of the flower spike is not immediate. The plant typically takes six to fourteen weeks after the treatment to begin showing signs of a new bloom.