The Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is a magnificent tropical plant often enjoyed for its large, trumpet-shaped winter blooms. Unlike annual flowers, the Amaryllis is a perennial bulb, meaning it is designed to store energy and regrow repeatedly. With proper care, these bulbs can rebloom for many years, relying on a cyclical process that mimics their natural environment. Successful reblooming hinges on managing the bulb’s annual cycle of growth, rest, and reawakening.
Building Energy After the First Bloom
The period immediately following the initial bloom is the most important phase for ensuring future flowers. Once the last flower fades, the spent flower stalk, or scape, should be cut back cleanly to within an inch or two of the bulb’s neck. It is necessary to leave the long, strap-like leaves intact because they are the plant’s energy factories.
The leaves must be allowed to photosynthesize, converting sunlight into the carbohydrates stored in the bulb for the next blooming cycle. The bulb should be moved to a location that receives ample light, ideally a sunny window, and can often be placed outdoors in full sun once all danger of frost has passed. During this active growth phase, which typically runs from spring through late summer, the plant requires consistent moisture.
Watering should be regular, ensuring the top inch of the potting medium dries out slightly between applications to prevent root rot. The bulb is a heavy feeder during this time and should be fertilized every two to four weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. This combination of adequate light, water, and nutrients allows the bulb to fully recharge its depleted reserves, which is the foundational step for subsequent reblooming.
Inducing the Necessary Dormancy Period
To trigger the formation of a new flower bud within the bulb, a period of intentional dormancy is required, which mimics the dry season in the plant’s native habitat. This process usually begins in late summer or early fall, typically around September. The first step is to gradually reduce the frequency of watering and completely stop all fertilization.
The lack of water and nutrients signals to the bulb that it is time to rest, causing the leaves to naturally yellow and die back. Once the foliage has completely withered, the bulb should be moved to a cool, dark location, such as a cool basement or an unheated closet. The storage temperature must remain consistently between 50 and 60°F (10 to 15°C) for the duration of the rest period.
This cool, dark environment is necessary for a minimum of eight to twelve weeks. During this time, the bulb should not receive any water or light, allowing it to initiate the new flower primordia. Without this uninterrupted rest at the correct temperature, the bulb will likely produce only leaves in the next cycle.
Waking the Bulb to Trigger New Growth
Once the required dormancy period has been completed, the bulb is ready to be awakened and forced back into its active growth phase. The first step involves cleaning the bulb by removing any remaining dry, dead foliage from the neck. Repotting is not necessary every year, but if the bulb is crowded or the potting medium is exhausted, this is the ideal time to refresh the soil. Ensure the top third of the bulb remains exposed above the mix.
The potted bulb should then be relocated to a warm environment, ideally between 68 and 77°F, and placed in a bright location with indirect light. The watering process at this stage is highly specific: apply a single, thorough watering to settle the soil around the roots, and then no further water should be given.
This initial period of dryness encourages the bulb to focus its energy on producing a flower stalk, or scape, rather than immediate leaf growth. Only when the new green shoot of the flower stalk begins to visibly emerge should watering resume, and even then, it should be done sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out almost completely before the next watering, gradually increasing the frequency as the scape grows taller. The new bloom should appear approximately six to ten weeks after the bulb is brought out of dormancy.
Common Reasons for Lack of Rebloom
When an Amaryllis fails to rebloom, the issue relates to a failure in one of the three phases of its annual cycle. The most frequent cause is insufficient energy storage during the active growth phase. If the leaves were cut too soon or the plant did not receive enough sunlight or fertilizer, the bulb will not have the necessary fuel reserves to produce a flower.
Another common failure occurs during the dormancy phase if the rest period was too short or the temperature was too warm. The bulb requires a minimum of eight weeks consistently below 60°F to properly set the next flower bud. Keeping the bulb too warm prevents the necessary physiological changes, resulting in the bulb producing only foliage.