Glycolic acid is a common Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane, widely recognized in skincare for its exfoliating and skin-brightening properties. It functions as a chemical exfoliant, helping to shed dead skin cells and improve skin texture and tone. When reviewing a skincare routine during pregnancy, the safety of active ingredients like glycolic acid becomes a primary concern. The question of using this ingredient centers on its concentration and the potential for the molecule to move beyond the skin’s surface and enter the body’s circulation.
How Glycolic Acid Interacts with the Skin
Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule within the AHA family, a characteristic that directly influences its function and absorption profile. This small molecular size allows it to penetrate the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, more readily than larger exfoliating acids, such as lactic acid. Once absorbed into the epidermis, glycolic acid works by dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, promoting cellular turnover and revealing brighter skin underneath.
The primary concern with any topical ingredient during pregnancy is systemic absorption, which is the amount of the substance that reaches the bloodstream. Although glycolic acid penetrates the skin effectively, the concentration and total amount applied determine the degree of potential systemic exposure. Low-concentration, over-the-counter products are designed to primarily affect the epidermis, with minimal amounts expected to pass into the deeper layers and ultimately the bloodstream. Scientific consensus suggests that the amount of glycolic acid absorbed into the systemic circulation from typical topical application is negligible.
Safety Guidelines for Glycolic Acid Use During Pregnancy
Medical consensus generally permits the use of glycolic acid during pregnancy, provided it is used within certain concentration limits. The American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists (ACOG) considers low-concentration, topical creams containing glycolic acid acceptable for use. This safety profile is based on the expectation of minimal absorption into the bloodstream, limiting any potential fetal exposure.
For at-home use, dermatologists recommend limiting the concentration of glycolic acid to 10% or less in topical products like cleansers, toners, or serums. Some clinicians may advise keeping the concentration at 7% or lower to account for increased skin sensitivity often experienced during pregnancy. Using products within this lower range helps manage common pregnancy skin issues like acne and hyperpigmentation.
Conversely, high-concentration professional glycolic acid peels, which often range from 30% to 70%, are advised against during pregnancy. These intense treatments deliver a much greater quantity of the acid over a shorter period, significantly increasing the risk of skin irritation, burns, and the chance of higher systemic absorption.
Pregnancy-Safe Alternatives for Exfoliation and Brightening
If a person chooses to pause the use of glycolic acid, several effective alternatives can address common pregnancy-related skin concerns like melasma and dullness. Azelaic acid is a frequently recommended ingredient, often prescribed for managing pregnancy acne and hyperpigmentation. This naturally occurring acid is well-regarded for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, offering a robust treatment option considered safe during this period.
Vitamin C, specifically L-ascorbic acid, is another pregnancy-safe ingredient that supports skin brightening and provides antioxidant protection. It works to inhibit the production of melanin, helping to fade dark spots and uneven skin tone, making it an excellent replacement for the brightening effects of glycolic acid. Applying a Vitamin C serum in the morning can also help protect the skin from environmental stressors.
A gentler alternative within the AHA family is lactic acid, which possesses a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid. Because of its size, lactic acid does not penetrate as deeply, resulting in a milder exfoliating action that is less likely to cause irritation, which is particularly beneficial for sensitive pregnancy skin.