Monstera plants are celebrated for their dramatic, fenestrated leaves, but their vigorous growth often presents a challenge for indoor gardeners: root management. As a tropical vining plant, the Monstera develops a robust root system that can quickly fill a container or send out unruly appendages. This guide provides a detailed approach to root pruning, ensuring your Monstera continues to thrive.
Differentiating Monstera Root Types
Monstera plants feature two distinct types of roots, each serving a separate biological role. The first type is the subterranean, or soil, root, which anchors the plant and is responsible for the uptake of water and dissolved mineral nutrients.
The second type is the aerial root, which grows directly from the stem nodes and protrudes into the air. As an epiphyte, the Monstera uses these woody roots primarily for physical support, attaching to structures as it climbs toward the light. Aerial roots can also absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients, supplementing the work of the soil roots.
Trimming Subterranean Roots During Repotting
Subterranean root pruning is reserved for repotting when a Monstera becomes severely root-bound. This condition occurs when the root mass occupies 70% or more of the pot volume, often visible as roots tightly circling the container or growing out of the drainage holes. Pruning allows the plant to remain in the same size pot while encouraging new, healthy root growth, rather than simply potting up.
To begin, gently remove the plant from its container and inspect the root ball. You must use sharp, sterilized shears or a knife to prevent introducing pathogens to the fresh cuts. The goal is to remove the outer layer of matted, circling roots, which often involves slicing off the bottom one-quarter to one-third of the root ball. This technique, sometimes called “scoring,” creates fresh ends that signal to the plant to produce new, non-circling feeder roots once it is returned to the pot with fresh soil.
Alternatively, you can gently tease apart the outer, tangled roots with your fingers or a rooting tool. If the root mass is extremely dense and compacted, slicing off the bottom section is often the less damaging approach. Never remove more than 30% of the entire root mass, as an excessive loss can severely inhibit its ability to absorb water and nutrients. This procedure is best performed during the active growing season, typically spring or early summer.
Managing Aerial Roots
Monstera aerial roots are often trimmed for appearance, as they can become long and brown. Trimming them will not negatively impact the plant’s health, since subterranean roots handle the bulk of water and nutrient absorption. If you choose to remove them, use clean, sharp scissors and make a clean cut close to the stem, taking care not to nick the stem tissue.
Removing all aerial roots at once may cause mild stress, so it is safer to trim only the most unruly ones. A better strategy is to train the roots toward a moss pole or wooden stake, where they will attach and provide vertical support.
Another option is to guide the aerial roots directly back into the soil. Once they penetrate the potting medium, they may function like subterranean roots, offering stability and nutrient uptake. If you trim them, new aerial roots will continue to grow from the nodes over time.
Post-Trimming Recovery and Care
After any root trimming procedure, whether subterranean or aerial, the Monstera requires a period of careful recovery to minimize stress. Immediately after repotting a root-pruned plant, stabilize it in the new or refreshed soil by gently tamping the medium around the root ball. Managing water intake is essential to prevent root shock or rot.
Avoid soaking the soil immediately, as the pruned roots have fewer ends to absorb water. Instead, give the plant a light, initial watering, and then allow the top two inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Monitor the plant closely for signs of stress, such as wilting or drooping leaves. Keep the plant in its original location to prevent additional environmental stress, and avoid fertilizing for at least six weeks, giving the newly cut roots time to heal and regenerate.