Yes, the perennial vegetable Asparagus officinalis can be transplanted, but the process is significantly more involved than moving typical garden nursery stock. Wild asparagus, often an “escapee” from cultivated fields, develops an expansive, deep root structure known as a crown. Successfully relocating an established wild plant demands careful technique and precise timing to preserve this crown and its associated fleshy storage roots. The difficulty lies in excavating a large, mature root system without causing fatal damage, as the plant relies on the stored energy within these roots to establish itself in a new location.
Determining the Best Time and Location
Transplanting must be done when the asparagus plant is dormant. This period occurs either in the late fall after the plant’s fern-like foliage has completely died back, or in the very early spring just before the new spears begin to emerge. Moving the plant while it is actively growing will almost certainly kill it because the plant’s energy reserves are fully committed to above-ground growth.
The new planting site must meet the specific environmental needs of asparagus to ensure its long-term survival. The chosen area should receive full sun exposure for most of the day to support robust fern growth. Excellent soil drainage is required, as asparagus crowns are highly susceptible to root rot in waterlogged conditions. The ideal soil pH is slightly alkaline, ranging from 6.5 to 7.5, which can be confirmed with a simple soil test kit.
The Physical Process of Excavation and Replanting
The first step in relocation is identifying the perimeter of the crown’s root system, which can be extensive on a mature wild plant. To minimize root damage, dig a wide trench at least 12 to 18 inches away from where the last year’s stalks emerged. Since asparagus roots are known to grow deep, the trench should be excavated to a depth of 18 to 24 inches to get beneath the central crown.
Work carefully around the entire circumference of the plant, gradually loosening the soil until you can gently lift the entire root mass. The goal is to keep the thick, fleshy storage roots and the central crown as intact as possible, as these hold the nutrient reserves needed for establishment. Once the crown is free, keep the roots moist by wrapping them in a wet burlap sack or towel while preparing the new planting site.
Preparation of the new planting hole should focus on creating an ideal environment for the roots. The trench should be dug deep enough so the crown will sit at the same depth it was previously growing, usually 6 to 8 inches below the soil surface. Mix in a generous amount of compost or aged manure to the bottom of the trench to enrich the soil and improve drainage.
Set the crown onto a small mound of amended soil in the center of the trench, carefully spreading the thick, cord-like roots down and out over the mound like spokes on a wheel. The top of the crown should be positioned to sit a few inches below the surrounding ground level. Backfill the hole gently with soil, ensuring no air pockets remain around the crown, and then water thoroughly to settle the soil.
Ensuring Survival in the First Year
Immediately after transplanting, the asparagus crown needs a deep, slow watering to eliminate air pockets and ensure good soil-to-root contact. This initial soaking helps reduce the shock of relocation by providing immediate access to moisture. Consistent watering is necessary throughout the first growing season, especially during dry spells, to support the plant’s recovery and the growth of new feeder roots.
Applying a thick layer of mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, around the newly planted area helps maintain soil moisture and temperature stability. Mulching also suppresses weed growth. Hand-pull any weeds that emerge to avoid disturbing the delicate new root growth, as weeds compete directly with the recovering crown for water and nutrients.
A primary rule for first-year survival is to resist the temptation to harvest any spears that emerge. Allowing the spears to grow into the tall, fern-like foliage is the mechanism by which the plant photosynthesizes and replenishes the stored carbohydrates in its crown, ensuring a successful, long-lived bed in the years to come.