Transplanting potato plants is possible but requires specific timing and careful technique to avoid compromising the final harvest. Potatoes are grown for their underground tubers, which are modified stems. While transplanting is not the standard procedure for potato cultivation, it can be done successfully, particularly when moving young sprouts started indoors or rescuing a volunteer plant growing in an inconvenient spot.
Why Transplanting Is Often Avoided
Potato cultivation typically begins with planting “seed potatoes”—pieces of the tuber with visible sprouts—directly into their permanent garden location. This direct planting method is preferred because potato plants are highly sensitive to root disturbance. They possess a shallow, fibrous root system that generally concentrates in the top 30 centimeters of soil, making them susceptible to stress from movement. Any trauma to the roots disrupts the plant’s ability to absorb water and nutrients efficiently. This stress can significantly reduce the formation of underground stolons, which are the specialized stems that swell to become the edible potato tubers. Moving a potato plant causes a temporary cessation of growth as the plant must divert energy to repairing damaged roots. This recovery period shortens the overall growing season available for tuber bulking, leading to a smaller yield. Therefore, gardeners only typically consider transplanting when they have started plants indoors early or need to relocate a plant that sprouted accidentally in a poor location.
Ideal Timing for Moving Potato Plants
The success of transplanting hinges on moving the potato plant when it is still very young, ideally before it develops an extensive root ball. The most opportune time is when the sprout is only about 4 to 6 inches tall, or when the plant is still in the seedling stage. Moving the plant at this size minimizes the damage to the emerging, delicate root structure.
If the plants were started indoors, they must undergo a gradual process called “hardening off” before being placed in the garden. Hardening off involves slowly acclimating the young plants to outdoor conditions like wind, direct sunlight, and cooler temperatures over a period of seven to ten days. This process prevents the intense shock that occurs if a sheltered plant is abruptly exposed to the harsh outdoor environment.
Begin by placing the seedlings outside for one or two hours in a shaded, protected area, then increase the time outdoors each day. Gradually expose them to more sun and wind until they can spend a full 24 hours outside, ensuring the outdoor soil temperature has reached at least 45°F at night. Moving a plant that has reached the flowering stage or is already established is highly risky, as root disturbance will almost certainly reduce the harvest.
Step-by-Step Transplanting Technique
Before moving the potato plant, prepare the new garden bed by loosening the soil deeply and incorporating compost to ensure good drainage and fertility. Potatoes thrive in loose soil with a slightly acidic pH, ideally between 5.0 and 6.5. The new site should receive at least six hours of direct sunlight daily.
A few hours before the move, deeply water the potato plant in its original location to keep the root ball cohesive and minimize transplant shock. When removing the plant, use a trowel or spade to dig a wide circle around the stem, aiming to extract the largest possible amount of surrounding soil with the roots intact. If the plant is an established volunteer, dig down at least 8 inches to capture as much of the root system as possible.
Dig the receiving hole in the new location deeper than the root ball, allowing the plant to be set lower than most transplants. Place the root ball gently into the hole, then fill around it with the amended soil, firming it lightly to eliminate air pockets. Plant the potato deeper than it was growing before, burying a portion of the lower stem, which will encourage additional tuber formation higher up.
Immediately after planting, water the newly transplanted potato thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots and aid in recovery. To promote establishment, some gardeners will prune back a portion of the foliage, allowing the plant to focus its energy on root growth. Providing temporary shade during the hottest part of the first few days can also help the plant overcome the initial stress of being moved.