Fiddle Leaf Fig trees (Ficus lyrata) are popular houseplants known for their large, distinctive leaves and impressive vertical growth. Many owners find their plant eventually becomes a tall, single stalk reluctant to produce side branches, often resulting in a “lanky” appearance. The answer to whether you can top a Fiddle Leaf Fig for new growth is yes. This technique is frequently used to manage height and encourage a bushier, more desirable tree shape by removing the plant’s main growing point. This fundamentally alters its growth strategy and promotes lateral branching, transforming a single stem into a multi-branched canopy.
Understanding Why Topping is Necessary
The Fiddle Leaf Fig’s tendency to grow straight upward is due to apical dominance. This natural survival mechanism prioritizes the growth of the main, central stem (the apex) over dormant side buds located further down the trunk. The apical meristem, or growth tip, produces the hormone auxin, which is transported down the stem and actively suppresses the development of these lateral buds. This process ensures the plant grows taller to reach optimal light.
Indoors, this strong upward growth often results in a plant that is too tall or has a sparse structure. Topping involves physically removing this dominant growing tip, which immediately disrupts the flow of the growth-suppressing auxin hormone. The removal of the apex signals the plant to divert energy and growth hormones, specifically cytokinins, into the dormant buds below the cut. These previously suppressed buds then activate, resulting in the formation of new side branches. This technique is the primary method for controlling excessive height and developing a fuller, tree-like form.
Executing the Topping Cut
The success of topping depends on making a precise and clean cut, requiring the right tools and timing. Use a sharp, sterilized cutting tool, such as pruning shears or a knife, to minimize damage and prevent pathogens. Sterilizing the blade with rubbing alcohol before the cut protects the plant’s health. The ideal time for this pruning is during the active growing season, typically spring or early summer, when the plant has the energy reserves to quickly heal and produce new growth.
The cut must be made just above a leaf node, which is the slightly raised ring or bump on the stem. Nodes contain the dormant buds that will stimulate new branches. Cutting slightly into the internodal space—the smooth area between two nodes—but directly above the chosen node, forces the plant’s energy to that specific point. A clean, horizontal cut promotes faster healing than a jagged one. Determine the desired final height of your plant and cut a few inches higher, allowing new branches to form at that level.
Essential Aftercare and New Growth
Immediately after the cut, the plant will exude a white, milky substance called latex sap. This sap is part of the plant’s natural defense mechanism, but it can be irritating to skin and is toxic if ingested. Wear gloves and use a clean, damp cloth or paper towel to gently dab the sap away from the wound. Allowing the wound to dry naturally is the best approach for healing.
To promote new branching, the plant needs optimal environmental conditions, including bright, indirect light and consistent watering. While the plant is healing, slightly reduce the frequency of watering until new growth appears. Since the plant has fewer leaves, its water needs are temporarily lowered. New growth typically appears within two to four weeks, beginning as small bumps from the dormant buds just below the cut. Expect one to three new branches to emerge from the upper nodes, creating the desired fuller canopy shape.