Tulip bulbs can be replanted, though their long-term care differs from perennial spring flowers like daffodils. While some specific varieties, such as Darwin hybrids, may naturalize and return year after year, many modern tulips are often treated as annuals because their reblooming performance declines quickly after the first season. The best practice involves lifting the bulbs after flowering, storing them through the summer, and replanting them in the fall. This process mimics the warm, dry rest period tulips experience in their native Mediterranean climate, ensuring the bulb is refreshed and ready to produce a strong flower the following spring.
Reasons and Timing for Lifting Tulip Bulbs
Lifting tulip bulbs becomes necessary because mother bulbs naturally divide and produce smaller offset bulbs, leading to overcrowding that results in fewer and weaker blooms. Moving the bulbs also helps break the cycle of disease or pest buildup in a single soil location. Gardeners may also need to lift them if the current spot suffers from poor drainage, as saturated summer soil is a major cause of bulb rot.
The timing of lifting is critical. After the petals drop, the green leaves continue photosynthesis, redirecting energy and nutrients back into the bulb to fuel next year’s bloom. You should only lift the bulbs once the leaves have naturally turned yellow or straw-colored and died back, typically about six weeks after the flowering period ends.
To lift the bulbs, use a garden fork to gently loosen the soil several inches away from the stem, carefully prying the soil chunk up to avoid piercing the bulb itself. Brush off the remaining soil, and immediately discard any damaged, soft, or diseased bulbs to prevent the spread of pathogens to healthy stock. If the foliage is still attached, remove it along with any long straggly roots.
Curing and Storing Bulbs Between Seasons
A process called curing is necessary to prepare the bulbs for long-term storage. Curing involves air-drying the bulbs for several days in a shaded, well-ventilated location, such as a garage or shed. This step allows the outer layer, known as the tunic, to harden and dry completely, which is a natural defense against fungal diseases and rot.
Once the bulbs are fully cured, they require specific conditions for their summer storage until the fall planting window. The ideal environment is dark, dry, and consistently cool, with good air circulation being a primary factor. Temperatures around 50 degrees Fahrenheit are often recommended for optimal preservation.
Storing the bulbs in a breathable material is essential to prevent moisture accumulation, which invites mold and decay. Mesh bags, such as those used for onions or oranges, or open-weave boxes with layers of material like peat moss or sawdust, provide the necessary airflow. Periodically inspect the stored bulbs throughout the summer and quickly remove any that show signs of becoming soft, moldy, or rotten, as one compromised bulb can affect the entire batch.
Techniques for Successful Replanting
The stored tulip bulbs should be replanted in the fall, typically from late September through November, which allows them adequate time to establish roots before the ground freezes. The best time to plant is when the soil temperature has consistently dropped below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, as this provides the necessary chilling period for proper growth. Choosing a location that receives full sun and has excellent drainage is paramount for the health of the bulbs.
If the soil is heavy clay, amend it with organic matter like compost or grit to improve permeability and prevent water from pooling around the dormant bulb, which leads to rot. A general rule for planting depth is to bury the bulb three times its own height, or six to eight inches for average-sized bulbs. Plant the bulb with the pointed tip facing upward and space them approximately three to four inches apart to allow for future division.
Cover the bulbs with soil and water them thoroughly to settle the surrounding earth and initiate root growth. If rodent pests like squirrels are an issue in the garden, covering the newly planted area with a piece of wire mesh or chicken wire offers a simple physical barrier until the ground freezes.