Lavender, a fragrant and drought-tolerant Mediterranean herb, is a popular choice for many gardens. Established lavender plants can be successfully transplanted, but the process requires careful planning and execution. Because lavender develops a woody stem structure and dislikes having its roots disturbed, proper preparation and aftercare are necessary to minimize transplant shock and ensure the perennial thrives in its new location.
Optimal Timing and Site Preparation
The best time to move an established lavender plant is during a period of mild weather, either in early spring after the last hard frost or in early autumn. Autumn transplanting allows the roots at least 30 days to settle before the ground freezes. Avoiding the harsh heat of mid-summer or the cold, wet conditions of winter is important for the plant’s survival and root establishment.
The new location must be prepared before the plant is dug up, starting with a spot that receives a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily. Lavender requires excellent drainage, so the soil should be sandy or loamy, ideally with a slightly alkaline pH between 6.7 and 7.3. If the existing soil is heavy clay, amend it with coarse sand or plant in a raised bed to prevent waterlogging and subsequent root rot. The receiving hole should be dug two to three times wider than the lavender’s current root ball but maintain a depth equal to the root ball’s height.
Step-by-Step Transplanting Process
Thoroughly soak the lavender plant with water the day before the move; this hydrates the tissues and helps keep the soil firmly attached to the roots. When digging, use a sharp spade to create a wide circle around the base, aiming for a root ball at least 12 to 18 inches in diameter for a mature specimen. Preserving as much of the root system and surrounding soil as possible reduces the severity of transplant shock.
Work the spade underneath the root ball, rocking it gently to sever the deep anchor roots before lifting the mass. Transport the intact root ball to the new location by placing it on burlap or a tarp, preventing it from crumbling during the move. Position the plant in the prepared hole so the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding garden soil, ensuring the woody crown is not buried. Backfill the hole gently with soil, avoiding heavy compaction around the roots, as lavender requires loose soil for optimal aeration.
Essential Aftercare for Recovery
Immediately after the lavender is settled, give it a deep watering to help the surrounding soil settle and eliminate air pockets that could dry out the roots. Unlike established lavender, a newly transplanted specimen requires consistent moisture during the first few weeks to support new root growth. Continue to water weekly during dry periods, allowing the top layer of soil to dry out between applications, but avoid overwatering.
To balance the reduced root mass with the foliage, prune back approximately one-third of the plant’s green growth before or immediately after transplanting. This reduction minimizes water demand, redirecting the plant’s energy toward root regeneration. Monitor the plant closely for signs of stress, such as persistent wilting or yellowing leaves, which indicate transplant shock. If the sun is intense during the first week, temporary shade may be necessary to allow the plant to focus on establishing new roots.