Replanting beets is possible, but the method depends on the desired outcome, as the plant serves different purposes at different life stages. Replanting is a technique used by gardeners for three distinct outcomes: saving crowded seedlings, regrowing greens for consumption, or producing seeds for the following year. Each method requires a specific technique.
Moving Young Beet Seedlings
Gardeners often start beet seeds in dense rows, and the necessary process of thinning leaves many viable young plants that can be replanted to maximize the final root harvest. Disturbing the sensitive taproot can cause “transplant shock,” resulting in stunted growth or oddly shaped, forked roots.
To mitigate root disturbance, the timing of the move is important. The optimal window for transplanting beet seedlings is when the plants have developed only two to four true leaves. Moving larger plants increases the likelihood of damaging the delicate root hairs responsible for nutrient and water uptake.
When moving the seedlings, dig deeply to lift the entire root structure with as much surrounding soil as possible, aiming to keep the root ball intact. Prepare the new planting site with deep holes that accommodate the full root without bending the taproot. Water deeply immediately after planting to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
New transplants benefit from shade for the first few days, especially if the weather is sunny or hot, which helps reduce moisture stress. Maintaining consistent soil moisture is necessary until the plant shows clear signs of new growth, indicating that the roots have successfully anchored.
Growing Greens from the Beet Crown
A simpler method of replanting involves using the top portion of a harvested beet root, known as the crown, to regrow the edible greens. This approach is a form of kitchen scrap gardening and will produce new leaves, but it will not regenerate a new, edible root bulb.
To start, cut off the top third of the beet root, ensuring that the existing leaf scars and the central growing point remain intact. This salvaged piece contains the necessary tissue to sprout new foliage.
The crown can be placed cut-side down in a shallow dish with just enough water to cover the bottom third of the piece, or it can be set directly into a small container of potting soil. Place the container in a location that receives bright light, such as a sunny windowsill, and change the water every few days to prevent rot.
Within a week, new green shoots will begin to emerge from the top of the crown, utilizing the stored energy within the root piece. You can begin harvesting the leaves when they are a few inches tall, cutting only the outer leaves and leaving the central ones to allow for continued production of fresh, tender greens.
Replanting Mature Beets for Seed Saving
Replanting a mature beet is done primarily for seed production, relying on the plant’s biennial life cycle. A biennial plant requires two full growing seasons, producing the edible root in the first year and then flowering and setting seed in the second.
For seed saving, select the best-looking roots from the first year’s harvest and prepare them for a cold period, known as vernalization. This cold exposure, typically below 40 degrees Fahrenheit for about ten weeks, is the biological trigger that prompts the beet to switch from vegetative to reproductive growth.
If the ground freezes, harvested roots must be stored over winter in a cool, dark location, such as a root cellar or refrigerator. Pack them in moist sand or sawdust to maintain hydration. Trim the tops to about an inch above the crown before storage to minimize moisture loss.
In the spring of the second year, the vernalized roots are replanted in the garden as soon as the soil is workable, setting the root so that the crown is just visible above the soil line. The plant will use its stored energy to produce a tall, branched flower stalk, which often requires staking, and will then set seed before the entire plant dies at the end of its second season.