You can propagate new strawberry plants, but the success depends on which part of the fruit you use. Planting the leafy top, known as the calyx, will not result in a new plant because it lacks the necessary vegetative growth point and will simply rot. Strawberries reproduce both sexually through the tiny seeds on their exterior and asexually through specialized stems. The most reliable methods involve starting a plant from the crown structure or from a runner sent out by an existing mature plant.
Regrowing from the Fruit Crown
The true growing point of a strawberry plant is the crown, a short, thickened stem located just above the root system where the leaves and flower stalks emerge. This structure must be handled correctly when planting, whether starting with bare root stock or a potted plant. When starting from a crown, the goal is to position it so the roots are fully buried while the growing point remains exposed to the air.
Planting the crown too deeply beneath the soil will cause it to rot, while setting it too high will dry out the roots. The correct technique is to ensure the midpoint of the crown is exactly level with the soil surface. This structure is typically purchased as a dormant, bare-root plant, as the fruit itself does not contain the viable crown tissue necessary for regrowth. Planting the crown with the roots spread out in a prepared hole establishes the central hub from which the new plant will grow.
Propagation Using Runners
The most efficient and reliable way to create new strawberry plants is through asexual reproduction using runners, also known as stolons. A runner is a long, horizontal stem that an established strawberry plant sends out along the soil surface. Along the runner, a small cluster of leaves, called a node, develops and forms a tiny clone plant.
This small plantlet will begin to produce its own roots if it makes contact with the soil. To encourage rooting, pin the node down onto a small pot filled with potting mix or directly into the garden soil using a piece of bent wire or a U-shaped staple. Keep the runner attached to the mother plant, as it provides the developing clone with energy and nutrients until its root system is established.
Once the plantlet has developed a robust root ball, typically after four to six weeks, sever the runner connecting it to the mother plant. This newly independent daughter plant is a genetic clone of the parent and will mature much faster than a plant grown from seed, often producing a harvest the following season. Regular removal and rooting of these runners is standard practice to maintain the health and productivity of an existing patch.
Essential Growing Conditions for Success
Successfully propagated strawberry plants require specific environmental conditions to thrive and produce fruit. Strawberries are heavy feeders that require at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily for maximum fruit production. A location with good air circulation is also important to help dry foliage and fruit quickly, which reduces the risk of fungal diseases.
The soil should be well-draining, as waterlogged conditions can lead to root rot, but it must also retain consistent moisture. Aim to provide about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week through rainfall or irrigation, preferably using a drip system to avoid wetting the leaves and crowns. Strawberries prefer a slightly acidic soil pH, ideally ranging between 5.5 and 6.8, which can be achieved by amending the bed with well-rotted compost or other organic matter.
A newly planted crown or runner will spend its first season establishing a strong root system, so expect the first significant harvest in the second year. Fertilization should be light and balanced, generally beginning once the plant starts to flower to support the energy demands of fruit development. Providing a mulch layer, such as straw, helps conserve soil moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps the developing berries clean.