Strawberry propagation is easily achieved through the natural runners that strawberry plants produce. While rooting new plantlets directly into soil is the most common method, they can also be successfully rooted in water. This water-based method is a temporary measure that allows for the controlled development of a robust root system before the young plant is permanently moved into the garden or a container.
Rooting Strawberry Runners in Water
Strawberry runners (stolons) are the long stems that emerge from the mother plant and produce small daughter plantlets. To begin water propagation, detach the plantlet using clean scissors once it has formed a few small leaves and root nubs (root pegs) at its base. Ideally, the plantlet should have at least four root nodules forming before being cut off.
Submerge the detached plantlet in a container of clean, non-chlorinated water. Ensure only the base of the crown—where the roots emerge—is submerged, keeping the leaves dry. Place the setup in a location that receives bright, indirect light, avoiding harsh, direct sun that can overheat the water. The water must be changed every few days to maintain oxygen levels and prevent stagnation or bacterial growth.
Roots will begin to form and elongate within two to three weeks, depending on the ambient temperature and variety. The plant is ready to be moved to soil once the new white roots are dense and have reached a length of about one to two inches. Allowing roots to grow too long in water can cause them to become overly adapted to the aquatic environment, making the transition to soil more difficult.
Moving Water-Rooted Plants to Soil
The transition from water to soil requires careful management to prevent transplant shock, as the delicate water roots are not structurally prepared for the drier, denser soil environment. The process of gradually acclimating the young plant to outdoor conditions is known as “hardening off,” which is especially important for water-rooted plants. The hardening off process should begin after the plant is placed in soil, starting with just an hour of outdoor exposure in a shaded, sheltered spot on the first day.
The plant should be potted in a well-draining soil mix, such as a sterile potting mix amended with perlite or peat to ensure aeration and moisture retention. When planting, ensure the crown is positioned correctly, with the roots spread out beneath the soil and the crown itself sitting right at the soil surface. Planting the crown too deeply can cause it to rot, while planting it too shallowly can expose the roots to drying out.
Immediately after transplanting, the soil should be watered thoroughly to settle the medium around the new roots, mimicking the moist environment they are used to. The newly potted plant will require consistently moist soil for the first week or two while the water roots adapt to extracting moisture and nutrients from the soil. This initial period of high moisture and partial shade allows the plant to focus its energy on establishing a functional soil-based root system.
Traditional Methods of Strawberry Propagation
While rooting in water is viable, most growers rely on traditional methods that involve soil from the start. The most common method is direct soil rooting of the runner. This involves placing the daughter plantlet onto a small pot of soil or a prepared garden spot while the runner remains attached to the mother plant. The plantlet is secured with a small wire or pin until it forms sufficient roots, usually within four to six weeks, before the runner is cut.
Crown division is another technique, often used for older, mature plants that have developed multiple growing points, or crowns, at the base. In early spring, the plant is dug up and the crowns are carefully separated. Ensure each new section has its own root system and foliage. These divisions are then replanted to create new, vigorous plants.
Starting strawberries from seed is the third method, primarily reserved for specialized types, such as alpine strawberries, or for developing new varieties. This process is significantly slower. Resulting plants may not retain the characteristics of the parent plant due to cross-pollination in hybrid varieties. For most home gardeners, propagation via runners remains the most reliable and efficient way to multiply their existing patch.