The staghorn fern, a member of the genus Platycerium, is an epiphytic plant that naturally grows upon objects like tree trunks rather than in soil. This unique growth habit results in two distinct frond types: the sterile, shield-like basal fronds that anchor the plant, and the fertile, antler-like fronds that hang or stand outward. As a mature staghorn fern thrives, its size and weight necessitate management. Propagation offers an excellent method to both control the parent plant’s growth and expand a collection, and the most common method is accessible for the home grower.
Propagation by Separating Pups
The most practical and common method for expanding your collection is through vegetative reproduction by separating the small offsets, commonly called “pups,” that develop around the base of the parent plant. These pups are genetic clones. The best time for division is during the plant’s active growing season, typically spring or early summer, when the parent plant has the energy reserves to recover quickly.
A pup must be sufficiently mature before separation, ideally possessing its own small, developing shield frond and a visible cluster of roots. Use a sharp, sterilized knife or blade to make a clean cut and prevent the introduction of pathogens. The cut should be made through the rhizome tissue connecting the pup to the main plant, ensuring the separated portion retains a substantial part of its base and root mass.
After separation, allow the wound on the pup to air-dry for a few hours to callus the tissue before mounting. This drying period protects the exposed tissue from infection. The pup is then ready to be secured to its own mount as a new, independent plant. This division process is significantly faster than spore propagation, yielding a recognizable plant in a much shorter timeframe.
The Advanced Method: Propagating from Spores
A specialized and time-intensive method involves cultivating new plants from the spores produced by the fern. These spores are located within brownish patches, known as sori, found on the underside of the mature, fertile fronds. To collect them, cut a section of fertile frond once the sori appear dark and fully developed, then place it spore-side down on paper in a dry location.
As the frond dries, the spores will drop onto the paper, which can be gently tapped to separate viable spores from debris. Sowing requires a sterile environment to prevent mold and fungal growth, common issues in the high-humidity conditions needed for germination. A fine, sterile medium like a mix of peat moss and perlite is often used, spread thinly in a covered container to create a miniature terrarium.
Lightly sprinkle the spores across the surface of the moist medium; they should not be covered, as they require light to germinate. Seal the container to maintain high humidity and place it in a warm spot with bright, indirect light. This process is slow; the spores may take anywhere from three to six months to germinate, first forming a prothallus, which is the sexual stage, before developing into a recognizable plantlet. It may take up to a year before the resulting plantlets are large enough to be transferred to a permanent mount.
Essential Steps for Mounting and Establishment
Once a pup is separated or a plantlet is large enough, secure it to a stable support, mimicking its natural epiphytic habitat. Suitable mounting materials include untreated wood planks, cork bark, or wire baskets. The staghorn fern’s roots must be cushioned and provided with a moisture reservoir. This is achieved by placing a generous layer of pre-moaked sphagnum moss or an alternative like coconut coir onto the mount.
Position the new plant directly on the moss bed, ensuring the basal shield frond rests against the moss and the mount. Orient the plant so its fertile fronds can grow outward naturally. The moss and the base of the fern are then firmly secured to the mount using a non-biodegradable material, such as:
- Clear fishing line
- Nylon stocking strips
- Thin horticultural wire
Wrap the securing material tightly around the moss and the base of the plant to prevent movement. Take care not to cover the growing tip or the young shield frond. The goal is to hold the plant securely until its roots grow into the moss and attach to the mount. Eventually, the shield fronds will grow over the securing material, permanently anchoring the fern.
Specific Care Requirements for New Propagations
The first few weeks after mounting require specialized care to encourage root growth and attachment. High humidity aids establishment; maintain this by placing the fern in a naturally humid environment or by misting the moss and fronds daily. The ambient temperature should remain stable and warm, ideally between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Newly mounted ferns need bright, indirect light and must be protected from direct sun exposure, which can scorch delicate new fronds. Keep the sphagnum moss consistently moist but never saturated or waterlogged, which leads to rot. Water by thoroughly soaking the entire mount in a sink or bucket for a few minutes, allowing it to drain completely before rehanging.
Avoid fertilizing the new propagation until clear signs of active new growth appear, such as a developing antler frond or a new shield frond. Introducing nutrients too early can stress the plant when it should be focusing energy on root development. This allows the new fern to dedicate resources to establishing a robust anchor and root system.