The Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) is a popular houseplant, and propagation is a common method for expanding a collection or saving a struggling plant. This species can be successfully propagated in water. This method is visually appealing, allowing you to watch the new roots develop, and it involves careful preparation of the cutting, maintaining an optimal environment for root growth, and a managed transition to soil.
Preparing the Fiddle Leaf Cutting
Water propagation begins with selecting a healthy stem cutting. The cutting should ideally be 6 to 12 inches long and have at least a few healthy leaves attached to the top section. Use clean, sterilized pruning shears or a sharp knife to make a swift, clean cut, which minimizes damage and reduces the risk of infection.
The location of the cut is crucial, as new roots emerge from a specialized area called a node, the point where a leaf meets the stem. Make the cut just below a node, often at a 45-degree angle to increase the surface area available for water absorption. Remove any leaves that would be submerged in the water, as these will rot and introduce bacteria to the propagation vessel.
To help prevent rot, some propagators choose to let the cut end of the stem dry out and form a slight callous for a few hours or overnight before submerging it. The final cutting should have at least one or two nodes submerged and a couple of healthy leaves remaining above the water line.
The Water Propagation Environment
The environment where the cutting is placed plays a significant role in encouraging the growth of new water roots. A clear glass container is often preferred because it allows you to monitor the root development and easily spot any cloudiness or algae growth that indicates a need for a water change. The water itself should be clean and at room temperature, with filtered or distilled water being ideal, though tap water left out for 24 hours to dissipate chlorine can also be used.
Water must be changed regularly, at least once a week, to replenish oxygen levels and prevent the buildup of pathogens that can cause the stem to rot. Place the container in a location that receives bright, indirect light, such as near an east-facing window. Avoid harsh, direct sunlight that can scorch the leaves or overheat the water. A warm environment will encourage faster growth, aligning with the species’ natural preference for consistent warmth.
The formation of roots can take several weeks to months. Tiny white nubs, which are the first signs of root development, typically appear between four and eight weeks. The cutting should remain in the water until the new roots are well-established, generally reaching a length of 2 to 3 inches, before attempting the transition to soil.
Moving the New Plant to Soil
The transition from an aquatic environment to a soil environment is a common point of failure for new propagators, as the water roots are structurally different from soil roots. These water roots are adapted to pull nutrients and oxygen directly from the water and must be gradually acclimated to the denser soil medium to prevent transplant shock. Waiting until the roots are at least two inches long and have begun to develop tiny secondary, or micro-roots, increases the cutting’s chance of survival in soil.
Select a pot with excellent drainage and fill it with a well-draining potting mix, which often includes components like perlite or bark to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged. Carefully remove the cutting from the water and plant it in the prepared soil, ensuring that the roots are fully covered and the stem is stable. The planting depth should cover the newly rooted section, but any remaining leaves must be kept above the soil line to avoid decay.
After planting, water the soil thoroughly until water drains from the bottom of the pot, which helps the soil settle around the delicate roots and eliminates air pockets. For the first few weeks, it is necessary to keep the soil consistently moist to ease the transition for the water roots, which are not yet efficient at drawing moisture from a drying soil environment. Gradually, you can shift to a more standard Fiddle Leaf Fig watering schedule, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out between waterings.