Planting a new tree in November is often one of the best times of the year to establish certain species successfully. This period follows the leaf drop of deciduous trees and precedes the deep winter freeze, offering a unique window of opportunity. Success relies on selecting dormant stock, applying correct planting techniques, and providing specific winter protection. This late-season approach gives the tree an advantage over spring plantings by allowing it to focus on root establishment before the stress of new seasonal growth begins.
The Biological Advantage of Late-Season Planting
The success of November planting is rooted in the biological process of tree dormancy. As daylight hours shorten and temperatures drop, the tree enters a resting phase where above-ground growth ceases, conserving energy. This reduced metabolic state minimizes the stress, known as transplant shock, that occurs when a tree is moved from its nursery location to a new site.
While the canopy is dormant, root growth often continues until the soil temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting in November allows the tree to use the relatively warm, moist fall soil to develop fine new roots, anchoring itself and starting water and nutrient absorption. This period of uninterrupted subsurface growth gives the tree a substantial head start compared to spring plantings. By the time spring arrives, the tree has established a more robust root system, positioning it to better handle the demands of leaf-out and summer heat.
Essential Planting Technique for Dormant Trees
The mechanical steps for planting a dormant tree must focus on creating an environment that encourages outward root growth. The planting hole should be dug wide, ideally two to three times the diameter of the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball itself. Digging a shallow hole prevents the tree from settling too deeply where oxygen is scarce, as most of a tree’s root system develops in the top 12 to 18 inches of soil.
Proper planting depth requires identifying and exposing the root flare, the point where the trunk widens into the root system. The top of the root flare must sit level with or slightly above the surrounding soil surface to prevent the trunk from being buried. Before backfilling, any circling roots on container-grown stock must be straightened or cut to encourage outward growth into the native soil. Backfilling the hole with the original soil and gently tamping it removes large air pockets and ensures good contact between the roots and the soil.
Post-Planting Winterization and Protection
Immediate care after planting is necessary to ensure the tree survives the winter. The dormant tree requires a thorough and deep watering immediately after planting to settle the soil and eliminate small air pockets around the roots. If the fall has been dry, continue watering until the ground freezes solid, as young trees need adequate soil moisture through their first few winters to prevent desiccation.
A layer of organic mulch is an effective form of winter protection, helping to insulate the soil and moderate temperature fluctuations. Apply a two to four-inch layer of mulch, extending it in a wide ring out to the tree’s drip line. Crucially, keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup and bark decay, creating a flat “donut” shape.
Newly planted trees, especially those with thin bark, can be susceptible to sunscald on the south or southwest side of the trunk. This damage occurs when dark bark warms rapidly during a sunny winter day, activating cells that are killed when the temperature plummets at sunset. To prevent this, wrap the trunk with a light-colored commercial tree guard or wrap, which reflects sunlight and keeps the bark temperature stable. Protect young bark from gnawing rodents like rabbits and voles by installing a wire or plastic guard around the base of the trunk.
Critical Regional and Soil Temperature Limits
While November is an ideal time for planting in many regions, the process is governed by environmental limits, particularly soil temperature. Planting becomes impossible once the ground is frozen solid, as this prevents proper digging and root-to-soil contact. Favorable planting conditions exist when the soil temperature, measured six to eight inches below the surface, remains above 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
In colder, northern climates, the ground may freeze permanently earlier in November, making late-season planting only possible in the first couple of weeks. Conversely, in warmer climates (higher USDA Hardiness Zones), the planting window may extend into December or January. If the ground has a layer of frost more than a half-inch deep, or if snow mixed with soil in the planting hole could create air pockets upon melting, planting should be postponed. Consulting a local USDA Hardiness Zone map provides a general guide, but the final decision must be based on current, unfrozen soil conditions.