Daffodils, botanically known as Narcissus, are typically planted in the autumn to establish roots and prepare for their spring bloom. The traditional planting window is September through November, allowing the bulbs to receive the necessary cold period before the ground freezes. While February is quite late in the planting season, it is often still possible to plant daffodils successfully, especially if the ground is not frozen solid. The success of this late planting depends entirely on the type of daffodil being planted and the condition of the soil.
Planting Dormant Bulbs in Late Winter
Planting a dormant, unsprouted daffodil bulb in February addresses the most common challenge of missed autumn planting. Daffodils require a process called vernalization, which is an extended period of cold temperatures, ideally between 35°F and 45°F, lasting for 12 to 16 weeks. This cold exposure is what triggers the biochemical response inside the bulb necessary for flower formation. Planting late in the season significantly reduces the amount of natural chilling the bulb receives, which can impact the quality and timing of the spring bloom.
If the ground is workable, plant the bulbs immediately, placing them with the pointed tip facing upward at a depth about three times the height of the bulb itself. This typically means planting them six to eight inches deep and spacing them approximately six inches apart. Planting them deeply helps insulate the bulbs and encourages robust root growth before the soil warms up.
If the ground is frozen, or if the bulbs have been stored in a warm location, they may benefit from a simulated chilling period. Pot the dormant bulbs in well-draining soil and place the containers in a cool, dark location, such as a refrigerator, for several weeks. Once the bulbs are taken out of refrigeration, they should be planted quickly to encourage root establishment before the spring growth cycle begins. Even without a full chilling period, planting the bulbs is preferable to letting them sit unplanted, as they will not survive until the next fall planting season.
Transitioning Potted and Forced Daffodils
Another common scenario in February involves purchasing daffodils that are already actively growing or even blooming in a pot. These plants are referred to as “forced” daffodils, meaning they have been artificially exposed to the necessary cold period to bloom early indoors. Transplanting these forced plants into the garden requires a careful process of acclimatization to prevent shock.
The plant must first be “hardened off” by gradually introducing it to outdoor conditions. This involves placing the pot outside in a sheltered location for increasing periods over a week or two, shielding it from direct sun and harsh winds. This step prepares the foliage and root system for the temperature fluctuation of the garden environment.
Once hardened, the entire plant, including the root ball, can be transplanted into the garden bed. Gently remove the plant from its container, keeping the root mass intact to minimize disturbance. Dig a hole the same depth as the pot and place the plant into the prepared soil. The plant should be watered thoroughly after transplanting, and the spent flowers should be removed to redirect the plant’s energy toward bulb development.
Immediate Care and Expectations
Regardless of whether a dormant bulb or a forced plant is set in the ground, site selection is important for long-term health. Daffodils require at least six hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal energy production. Excellent soil drainage is also necessary, as the bulbs are highly susceptible to rotting in soggy or waterlogged conditions.
After planting, deep watering is immediately needed to help settle the soil around the bulbs and initiate root growth. For dormant bulbs planted in February, the first year’s bloom may be delayed, stunted, or completely absent due to the insufficient cold period. However, the bulb will establish its roots and foliage this year and store energy for a stronger, more predictable display the following spring.
For forced daffodils, the foliage must be allowed to yellow and die back naturally in the garden, a process that typically takes six to eight weeks after blooming. The green leaves continue to photosynthesize, which is how the bulb replenishes the energy reserves needed for subsequent years of flowering. Removing the foliage too early will starve the bulb and result in smaller or fewer blooms the following spring.