The Easter Lily (Lilium longiflorum) is a popular holiday plant often purchased while in full bloom. Because these lilies are forced to flower early, many people assume they must be discarded once the flowers fade. They are hardy perennial plants in many temperate regions, typically surviving winters in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 through 8. With proper care after the blooms are finished, this bulb can be successfully transplanted into your garden for enjoyment in subsequent years.
Preparing the Lily for the Outdoors
To prepare the lily for transition, ensure the bulb receives enough energy for future growth. Once the flowers have withered, “deadhead” the plant by carefully pinching or snipping off the spent blossoms. This prevents the plant from diverting energy into developing seeds, which is vital for the bulb’s health.
Leave the green foliage and stem completely intact after removing the flowers. The leaves must remain on the plant until they naturally begin to yellow or brown, typically over several weeks or months. The green leaves perform photosynthesis, creating and storing the carbohydrates the bulb needs to produce next year’s blooms.
Before transplanting, the potted lily must be gradually acclimated to the outdoor environment through a process called “hardening off.” Start by placing the plant in a sheltered outdoor location for a few hours each day. Over about a week, slowly increase the plant’s exposure to direct sunlight, wind, and temperature fluctuations. This adjustment minimizes transplanting shock and helps prevent the leaves from getting sunburned once planted permanently.
Proper Techniques for Transplanting
The ideal time for transplanting is once the threat of frost has passed, generally in late spring or early summer. Select a location that receives at least six hours of sunlight daily, though partial shade is beneficial, especially afternoon shade in hotter climates. The planting site must have well-draining soil, as waterlogged conditions quickly lead to bulb rot.
Lilies are deep-rooted plants, and planting depth contributes to their success. When removing the bulb from its pot, plant it deeply, positioning the top about six inches beneath the soil surface. This deep planting protects the stem and encourages the development of “stem roots” above the bulb, which anchor the plant and absorb nutrients.
If planting multiple lilies, space the bulbs approximately 12 to 18 inches apart to allow for mature growth. After placing the bulb in the hole and gently backfilling with soil, water the area deeply to settle the soil around the roots. Consistent moisture is beneficial for the first few weeks to help the plant establish itself.
Overwintering and Encouraging Future Blooms
Once established, the Easter Lily enters its natural perennial cycle, requiring a period of winter dormancy. The foliage naturally dies back in the fall; once the leaves have withered and browned, prune the stem down to the soil level. The bulb must experience a prolonged chill period during winter to properly set the flower buds for the following season.
In colder regions (USDA Zones 5 and 6), the bulb may require winter protection. After the foliage is removed, apply a protective layer of insulating mulch, such as straw, shredded leaves, or wood chips, three to four inches deep over the planting site. This covering regulates soil temperature and prevents the bulb from being damaged by freezing and thawing cycles, which can push it out of the ground.
When planted outside, the lily reverts to its natural bloom schedule. The flowers will no longer appear around the Easter holiday, as that timing was artificially forced by greenhouse conditions. Instead, anticipate the fragrant, white blooms naturally in the garden during the mid-summer months, typically late May or June, depending on your climate.