Bermuda grass is a highly resilient, warm-season turf variety prized for its vigorous growth and impressive drought tolerance. It is capable of surviving extended dry periods by entering a semi-dormant state. Despite its robust nature, Bermuda grass can be overwatered, and this mistake is a frequent cause of poor lawn health. Providing excess moisture is often more detrimental than underwatering, as it stresses the plant and creates an environment for numerous damaging conditions.
Visual Symptoms of Overwatering
A primary sign of overwatering is the discoloration of the grass blades, often appearing as a yellowing known as chlorosis. This symptom results from roots being deprived of oxygen and an inability to properly absorb nutrients like nitrogen. The grass may also exhibit a dull, grayish-green hue, and the blades might appear wilted or limp even though the soil is visibly wet. This counterintuitive wilting occurs because the suffocated roots can no longer function to transport water to the leaves.
The soil itself will feel spongy or soggy beneath your feet, and walking across the lawn may leave footprints that remain visible for an extended time. Constant saturation can also lead to the presence of surface-level indicators such as moss, algae, or small mushrooms. Overly wet conditions also promote the growth of water-loving weeds, including nutsedge and crabgrass, which thrive in the saturated environment that simultaneously weakens the Bermuda grass.
The Consequence of Soil Saturation
The primary biological damage from overwatering occurs beneath the surface when soil saturation displaces the necessary air pockets. Plant roots require oxygen for nutrient and water absorption. When the soil becomes waterlogged, the air spaces are filled entirely with water, leading to anaerobic conditions where oxygen is absent. This oxygen deprivation effectively suffocates the root system, causing root function to decline rapidly.
Prolonged anaerobic conditions lead directly to root rot, or root asphyxiation, where the roots turn dark, become sparse, and begin to decay. A weakened or damaged root system cannot support the demands of the grass blades above, resulting in the visible decline and eventual death of the turf. Saturated soil also creates an ideal, humid environment for various fungal pathogens to flourish and infect the stressed grass. Common turf diseases like Brown Patch or Take-all Root Rot, caused by the fungus Gaeumannomyces graminis, are linked to excessive soil moisture and poor drainage. This combination of root damage and opportunistic disease ultimately destroys the lawn.
Implementing an Effective Watering Schedule
The most effective strategy for watering Bermuda grass is to adopt a “deep and infrequent” schedule, which encourages the development of a deep root system. The goal is to apply enough water in a single session to penetrate the soil to a depth of six to eight inches. This depth encourages the roots to grow downward in search of moisture, making the turf more resilient to heat and drought.
For established lawns, this usually translates to applying approximately one to one and a half inches of water in total per week during the active growing season. Rather than watering daily, it is generally better to apply this amount in a single session or split over two sessions, allowing the top layer of soil to dry out between applications. In the peak heat of summer, this may mean watering every three to five days, depending on the specific soil type and climate.
Timing is also an important factor, with the optimal period being early morning, typically between 4 a.m. and 10 a.m. Watering during this window allows the moisture to soak in before the midday heat causes excessive evaporation, maximizing the water that reaches the roots. Early morning irrigation also ensures the grass blades dry quickly once the sun rises, which reduces the duration of leaf wetness and discourages the germination of fungal spores. To accurately monitor soil moisture, homeowners can use a probe or screwdriver to check the dampness at the six-inch depth, or use a rain gauge to measure the volume of water delivered by their irrigation system.