It is possible to move bulbs while they are actively growing, but this action is highly disruptive to the plant’s life cycle. The term “growing” refers to the period after the bulb has sprouted foliage or has begun to develop a flower bud above the soil line. While transplanting is best done when bulbs are dormant, moving them during the active growth phase is sometimes necessary and can be done successfully with careful technique. The primary goal of moving a growing bulb is not to preserve the current season’s bloom, but to ensure the bulb’s long-term survival and its ability to flower in future years.
Immediate Consequences of Mid-Growth Movement
Transplanting a bulb while it is actively growing results in a condition known as transplant shock. This physiological stress is caused by damage to the delicate root system during the digging process. The fine root hairs responsible for absorbing water and nutrients are often severed, compromising the plant’s ability to hydrate itself in the new location.
During the spring, the plant pulls energy from the bulb’s reserves to fuel rapid top growth and flower production. When the roots are damaged, the bulb must redirect its limited energy from growth to repairing the compromised root system instead. This energy diversion means the plant will most likely abort its current flowering attempt, either by the flower bud withering or by the stem collapsing. The bulb prioritizes root re-establishment over the seasonal bloom, leading to a failed floral display for the current year.
Step-by-Step Guide for Successful Relocation
The success of moving a growing bulb relies on minimizing root trauma and keeping the root system intact. Before digging, the new location should be fully prepared, ensuring the soil is well-draining and the planting depth is correct for the specific bulb type. A common guideline is to plant the bulb at a depth approximately three times its height.
To lift the bulb, begin by digging a wide circle, at least six to eight inches away from the base of the visible foliage. This broad radius helps to ensure the entire root ball remains undisturbed and attached to the bulb. Use a garden fork or spade to gently loosen the soil all around the perimeter, pushing the tool straight down to a depth that is below the bulb’s base.
Once the soil is sufficiently loosened, lift the entire clump of soil, roots, and bulb as a single mass. It is important to handle the bulb by this root-soil mass, avoiding pulling on the green foliage, which can easily detach from the bulb itself. If the root ball begins to crumble, carefully cradle it to keep as much soil around the roots as possible, which helps to preserve the remaining fine root hairs.
The new planting hole should be slightly wider than the lifted root ball and dug to the same depth the bulb was previously growing. Place the entire root ball into the prepared hole, making sure the top of the bulb is at the correct level. Gently backfill the hole with the surrounding soil, lightly tamping it down to remove large air pockets without compacting the soil excessively. Immediate and thorough watering is necessary to settle the soil around the roots and begin the process of re-establishing contact with the surrounding earth.
Recovery and Long-Term Health of the Bulb
Following the transplant, the focus is on helping the bulb recover from the shock and rebuild its internal energy stores for the following season. Maintaining consistent, moderate moisture is necessary for the first few weeks to encourage new feeder root growth. The soil should never become waterlogged, as excessive water can lead to bulb rot, especially when the plant is already stressed.
Even if the current year’s bloom has failed, the green foliage must be allowed to remain intact until it naturally yellows and dies back. The leaves function as solar collectors, converting sunlight into carbohydrates through photosynthesis. These carbohydrates are then transported back down and stored in the bulb, recharging the energy reserves. Prematurely cutting the leaves short-circuits this storage process, which directly determines the bulb’s ability to produce a flower next spring.
The foliage may take several weeks to a month or more to fully senesce and turn brown, depending on the bulb type and local weather conditions. This period is the bulb’s time to recuperate and prepare the flower bud for the next growing cycle. Allowing the leaves to complete their natural cycle and ensuring the plant has sufficient moisture and sunlight maximizes the chances that the relocated bulb will provide a vibrant display in the subsequent spring.