Impatiens, primarily the Impatiens walleriana species, are tropical perennials often treated as annuals in temperate climates. These colorful plants can be successfully brought indoors, usually for overwintering until the next growing season. Their tropical nature allows them to survive year-round when provided with the proper indoor conditions. Successfully transitioning them requires specific adjustments to mimic their native habitat.
Preparing Impatiens for Indoor Transition
The most important step before moving impatiens inside is thoroughly preparing the plant to prevent an indoor pest infestation. Outdoor plants often harbor small insects like spider mites, aphids, or whiteflies that can quickly spread to other houseplants. Begin the transition well before the first expected frost, ideally when nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, since a sudden cold shock can damage the foliage.
A meticulous inspection of the leaves, stems, and soil surface is necessary to identify any unwanted pests, focusing especially on the leaf axils and undersides. Gently rinse the plant with a mild stream of water to wash away dust and visible pests clinging to the foliage. If an infestation is visible, treating the plant with insecticidal soap or a diluted neem oil solution is a recommended preventative measure.
To isolate potential hitchhikers, scrape away the top inch of potting mix and replace it with fresh, sterile soil, which removes insect eggs or larvae residing near the surface. Allow the plant to dry slightly and keep it separate from existing houseplants for a quarantine period of at least two weeks. This provides time to monitor for any emerging issues.
Meeting Key Indoor Environmental Needs
Impatiens tolerate deep shade outdoors, but this does not translate well to the low light levels typically found inside a home during winter. They require bright, indirect light to thrive indoors and maintain a compact, healthy appearance. An ideal location is often a sunny east-facing window, which provides gentle morning sun without the intensity of direct afternoon exposure.
If natural light is scarce, supplementary lighting using a full-spectrum LED grow light for 12 to 14 hours a day is beneficial. Low light conditions quickly cause the plant to become weak and drop its lower leaves as it struggles to photosynthesize effectively.
Adjusting the watering routine is necessary because reduced air circulation and cooler indoor temperatures slow moisture evaporation. While impatiens prefer consistently moist soil, they are susceptible to root rot if they remain waterlogged. Allow the top inch of the potting mix to become dry to the touch before watering thoroughly again.
Standard household temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit suit impatiens well. They must be situated away from cold drafts from windows or doors, and direct heat sources like radiators or furnace vents. Since indoor air often lacks tropical humidity, increasing moisture around the plant is helpful. Placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot bottom does not touch the water, creates a localized humid microclimate.
Managing Indoor Growth and Appearance
Even with optimal indoor light, impatiens often exhibit etiolation, or “legginess,” as they stretch toward the light source, resulting in sparse, long stems. Pruning is a necessary maintenance task to encourage a bushier growth habit and prevent the plant from becoming spindly. When pruning, cut back the stems by one-third to one-half, making the cut just above a visible leaf node where new lateral growth will emerge.
Flowering will likely be significantly reduced or stop entirely during the dark winter months as the plant enters a semi-dormant state. This natural period of slower growth allows the plant to conserve energy for a resurgence in the spring. Once the days lengthen in late winter and new growth is evident, the plant enters a more active growth phase.
A diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 ratio, can be applied once new growth is evident. However, feeding should be avoided entirely when the plant is dormant during winter. Regular removal of spent flowers and yellowing leaves, known as deadheading, keeps the plant clean and directs energy toward healthy foliage production rather than seed production.