The straightforward answer to whether potatoes purchased from a grocery store can be grown in a home garden is yes. These tubers are botanically the same as those used for planting and possess the necessary growth points, known as “eyes,” to sprout new plants. Successfully transitioning a store-bought potato into a productive crop requires specific preparatory steps and an understanding of the challenges inherent to the commercial food supply chain.
Preparing Store-Bought Potatoes for Planting
Sprouting, or “chitting,” is the first necessary step, particularly because commercial potatoes are often stored in cool, dark conditions that suppress growth. This process wakes the tuber from dormancy and encourages the development of strong, short, and dark green sprouts. To chit the potatoes, place them in a single layer in a bright location that receives indirect sunlight, maintaining a cool temperature, ideally between 50°F and 60°F.
The ideal sprout is short and stubby; long, pale, and spindly sprouts indicate too little light and will break off easily during planting. The chitting process utilizes the potato’s stored starch reserves, converting them into energy for initial shoot growth. This pre-germination step provides a distinct head start over planting dormant tubers.
Once the sprouts are approximately half an inch long, the potato must be cut into smaller sections. Each resulting piece, called a seed piece, must contain at least two healthy “eyes” or growth nodes to ensure successful shoot development. The seed piece should weigh about 1.5 to 2 ounces, providing enough stored energy for the initial growth phase.
After cutting, the seed pieces must be allowed to cure for two to three days before planting. Curing involves letting the cut surfaces dry out in a warm, well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight. This process encourages the formation of a protective, cork-like layer over the wound, known as suberization. Suberization significantly reduces the risk of pathogens entering the tissue and prevents the pieces from rotting in the soil. The curing temperature is ideally kept near 65°F.
Key Differences Between Store Potatoes and Certified Seed Potatoes
A primary challenge when using store-bought potatoes is the potential presence of chemical sprout inhibitors, which are routinely applied to commercial crops. These substances, such as chlorpropham (CIPC), are used to extend shelf life and prevent premature sprouting during storage and transportation. CIPC works by interfering with cell division in the eyes, effectively halting the sprouting process.
The residual presence of these inhibitors can significantly delay or completely prevent the tubers from chitting or growing once planted. While washing the potatoes can help remove some surface residue, the chemical often penetrates the skin, necessitating the longer chitting process to overcome its effects. The ability to overcome the inhibitor depends on the concentration used and the duration of storage.
The most significant distinction lies in disease management. Certified seed potatoes undergo rigorous testing for common pathogens before sale, guaranteeing they are free from destructive diseases like late blight and various potato viruses that can reduce yields. Store-bought potatoes carry an unknown disease risk and may harbor subclinical viruses that do not affect the food but can infect the garden soil and spread to other crops.
Potato viruses, even those not visibly apparent on the parent tuber, can lead to a condition known as “running out,” where subsequent generations produce diminishing and deformed harvests. Planting infected material risks introducing systemic issues into the garden bed, potentially making the soil unsuitable for future potato crops for several years. This unseen risk is the main reason commercial growers rely exclusively on tested, certified seed stock.
Furthermore, store potatoes are typically labeled only by their general type (such as Russet, Yukon Gold, or Red) without specifying the exact cultivar. This lack of precise varietal identification prevents the gardener from knowing the potato’s optimal growth characteristics, such as its time to maturity or its specific resistance to pests and diseases. The combination of potential sprout inhibition and subclinical disease burden means that the overall yield from a store-bought potato crop is often lower than that of certified seeds.
Planting and Initial Care for Your Potato Crop
Potato plants thrive in loose, well-draining soil that is high in organic matter to allow for easy tuber expansion. The prepared seed pieces should be planted with the cut side facing down and the chitted sprouts facing upward. A planting depth of 4 to 6 inches is recommended to protect the developing shoots from light.
Proper spacing is necessary to ensure adequate air circulation and nutrient availability. Each seed piece should be spaced about 10 to 12 inches apart within the row, with rows separated by at least 2 to 3 feet. This spacing prevents overcrowding and allows sufficient room for the subsequent hilling process.
The process of “hilling” begins once the potato plants reach approximately 6 to 8 inches in height. Hilling involves mounding loose soil or compost around the base of the stems, leaving only the top few inches of foliage exposed. This action serves the dual purpose of protecting the developing tubers from sunlight (preventing them from turning green and producing toxic solanine) and encouraging the formation of more tubers along the buried stem.
Hilling is necessary because potato tubers do not form on the roots; they develop on specialized underground stems called stolons that grow outward from the buried main stem. If the soil is not mounded high enough, the stolons will grow close to the surface, and the resulting tubers will be exposed to light, leading to greening. The final hilling mound should be substantial, forming a ridge at least 6 to 8 inches high above the original planting level.
Consistent moisture is necessary, especially during the flowering stage when the plant is actively setting new tubers, though waterlogging must be avoided. Potatoes are heavy feeders, requiring a balanced fertilizer that is slightly lower in nitrogen to encourage tuber development over excessive foliage growth. Once the foliage begins to yellow (typically around the third month), watering should be reduced and then ceased entirely to allow the tuber skins to set and thicken before the final harvest. A period of dry soil before digging improves the storage life of the finished crop.