Lavender grows well in pots, offering the advantage of a portable, aromatic garden. Container growing allows for precise control over the soil environment. Successfully cultivating potted lavender hinges on replicating its native dry, sun-drenched, and well-drained conditions. This method requires careful attention to drainage holes, soil composition, and seasonal positioning.
Selecting the Right Variety and Container
Choosing the right plant variety and container material is the first step toward successful container cultivation. Larger lavender species, such as those used for oil production, can quickly outgrow a manageable container, making dwarf varieties a superior choice for pots. Excellent selections include the English lavender cultivars ‘Munstead’ or ‘Hidcote,’ which maintain a compact shape, and ‘Thumbelina Leigh,’ which only reaches about 10 to 12 inches tall and wide.
The container must be appropriately sized to accommodate a healthy root system, requiring a diameter of at least 12 inches for smaller plants. Proper drainage is non-negotiable, meaning the pot must have ample, unobstructed drainage holes. Porous materials like unglazed terracotta are recommended because they allow excess moisture to evaporate through the container walls, helping to prevent the root rot that lavender is prone to. While plastic containers are lighter, they retain moisture more readily, which increases the risk of overwatering.
Creating the Ideal Soil Environment
Improper soil and poor drainage are the most frequent causes of failure for container-grown lavender, and must be addressed to mimic its dry, rocky origins. Standard, all-purpose potting soil is typically too dense and moisture-retentive for lavender’s needs. The ideal substrate must be amended heavily to ensure water passes through almost instantly.
A suitable custom mix should include a base of potting soil blended with 30% to 50% drainage-enhancing materials like perlite, coarse sand, or horticultural grit. This high ratio of inert material ensures the rapid water runoff essential to prevent the roots from sitting in soggy conditions. Lavender prefers a slightly alkaline soil environment, ideally with a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5. If your base potting mix is acidic, incorporating a small amount of garden lime or dolomite during planting can help raise the pH.
Daily Care: Light, Water, and Feeding
Lavender’s Mediterranean heritage dictates care, centering on maximizing sunlight and minimizing excess moisture. The plant requires a minimum of six to eight hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight daily to thrive and produce fragrant blooms. Insufficient light will result in leggy growth and significantly reduced flowering.
Overwatering is the primary threat to the plant’s survival. The goal is to allow the soil to dry out almost completely between waterings; only irrigate when the top inch or two of the mix feels dry to the touch. When watering, soak the container thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes, then ensure the pot is never left sitting in a saucer of standing water.
Lavender is adapted to nutrient-poor soils. Fertilizing frequently or using high-nitrogen formulas can promote lush foliage growth at the expense of flower production, while also potentially stressing the plant. If you choose to feed, apply a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer just once a year in the spring to replenish any nutrients lost from the limited volume of container soil.
Long-Term Maintenance and Winter Protection
Long-term care involves regular maintenance to keep the plant vigorous and compact. Pruning is necessary to prevent the plant from becoming excessively woody and sparse at the base. The main pruning should occur immediately after the main flush of flowers fades, where you should remove about one-third of the plant’s current year’s growth.
Make cuts into the green, leafy growth and avoid cutting into the old, brown, woody stems, as lavender rarely regrows from old wood. Container-grown lavender benefits from repotting every two to three years into a slightly larger container. Alternatively, roots can be lightly trimmed and refreshed with new soil to prevent the plant from becoming root-bound. This process is best done in early spring before new growth begins.
Potted lavender is more vulnerable to cold than plants in the ground because the roots lack the insulation of surrounding earth. In cold climates, moving the containers to a sheltered, unheated space is necessary for winter protection, such as an unheated garage or shed where temperatures remain cool but above freezing. Alternatively, in moderately cold areas, the pot can be temporarily sunk into the ground to utilize the earth’s insulating properties. During this dormant period, watering should be drastically reduced, only occurring when the soil has become completely dry.