Succulents store water in fleshy leaves, stems, or roots, making them uniquely suited for propagation through cuttings. Cutting succulents is a beneficial practice for both the health of the parent plant and for creating new growth. This straightforward method is highly successful for expanding a collection. The process involves making a clean separation, allowing the cutting to heal, and then encouraging the formation of new roots and an independent plant.
Purposes for Cutting Succulents
Gardeners primarily cut succulents for two reasons: necessary maintenance and propagation. Maintenance cuts often address etiolation, which occurs when the plant stretches out excessively while searching for light. Removing the elongated top portion allows the remaining stem to produce compact new growth, effectively reshaping the plant.
Pruning involves removing damaged, diseased, or dying leaves and stems, directing the plant’s energy toward healthy tissue and preventing pathogen spread. These cuts help maintain a desirable shape or size, especially when grown indoors. Removing the top of a stretched succulent, known as beheading, is an effective way to reset the plant’s growth habit and improve its appearance.
Propagation is the second main reason for cutting, allowing for the creation of genetically identical clones from a single plant. Stem cuttings (a section of the stem) and leaf cuttings (a single leaf) are the most common methods of asexual reproduction. This technique is a simple, cost-effective way to multiply favored varieties.
Preparing and Taking the Cutting
The first step in taking a cutting is to select a healthy piece of stem or a plump, mature leaf from the parent plant. For stem cuttings, aim for a section at least 3 to 6 inches long to provide enough stored energy for rooting. Use sterile tools, such as a sharp knife or clean scissors, to make a quick, clean cut and prevent introducing bacteria or fungi into the open wound.
After the cutting is taken, it must be allowed to air-dry completely, a process known as callousing. The open wound must form a protective, dry layer to seal itself off. This scab-like barrier prevents excessive water loss and, more importantly, blocks the entry of moisture-borne pathogens that cause rot.
The callousing period typically takes between two days and one week, depending on the cutting’s size and humidity. Place the cuttings on a dry surface, such as a paper towel, in a location with bright, indirect light and good airflow. The cut end is ready when it appears dry, firm, and slightly hardened.
Encouraging Successful Rooting
Once the cut end has formed a complete callus, the cutting is ready to be placed in a rooting medium. A coarse, well-draining soil mix designed for cacti and succulents provides the best environment. The ideal mix often includes ingredients like perlite, coarse sand, or pumice to ensure rapid drainage and aeration.
For stem cuttings, gently insert the calloused end about an inch or two into the moistened soil, ensuring the lower leaves are slightly above the surface to prevent moisture contact. Leaf cuttings are best laid flat on the soil surface, or just the calloused end can be placed lightly into the medium. New roots will emerge from the calloused tissue, searching for moisture and nutrients in the soil.
Unlike mature succulents, cuttings require a slightly more frequent but minimal watering regimen to encourage root growth. Instead of a deep soak, mist the surface of the soil lightly whenever it feels completely dry. This provides enough moisture to stimulate root development without creating soggy conditions that lead to rot.
Place the potted cuttings in a location that receives bright, indirect light, which provides the energy needed for growth while preventing the cutting from overheating. Rooting time varies by species but generally takes a few weeks. Success can be confirmed by gently tugging on the cutting; resistance indicates that new roots have formed and anchored the plant in the soil. Once rooted, gradually transition the new plant to a standard watering schedule, allowing the soil to dry out fully between thorough waterings.