Yes, you can buy full grown hedges, and they are commonly sold under the commercial term “instant hedging” to provide immediate privacy and aesthetic appeal to a landscape. This option bypasses the years required for smaller plants to mature, offering an immediate, dense green barrier. The appeal of a finished product is understandable, but it involves specialized sourcing, installation, and care due to the maturity and size of the plant material. The process of acquiring and establishing an instant hedge is significantly different from planting small, young shrubs.
Sourcing and Terminology for Mature Hedges
Mature hedge plants are typically sourced from specialized nurseries, large-scale landscape contractors, or dedicated tree farms that specialize in growing large specimens. These facilities invest years in cultivating the plants, often pruning them multiple times annually to achieve the required density for an effective screen. The products come in a few distinct formats, each with its own characteristics for transport and planting.
One common format is the Balled and Burlapped (B&B) root system, where the plant is field-grown, dug up with its original soil, and wrapped tightly in burlap and a wire basket. Another option is the containerized mature plant, which has been grown in a large pot, meaning its root system is fully contained and undisturbed. Finally, true “instant hedging” often comes in pre-grown panel or trough systems. Multiple plants are grown together in these long, rectangular units, ready to be planted end-to-end for a seamless, continuous hedge and immediate installation.
Factors Influencing Price and Size
The cost of mature hedging is higher than purchasing smaller plants because the price reflects the years of nursery care and cultivation required to achieve a finished product. Species rarity and demand influence the final price, with slow-growing, dense evergreens like Boxwood or Yew often costing more than faster-growing deciduous options. Labor costs associated with digging and preparing the large root balls are also factored in, as this process requires specialized equipment and careful handling to minimize root damage.
The size of the hedge is measured by height and width, but for individual specimens, the trunk diameter, or caliper, is sometimes used to indicate maturity. Taller, wider, and older specimens command a higher price because they represent a greater investment of time and resources from the grower. Purchasing hedge units in bulk, such as multiple pre-grown panels, can offer a slight cost efficiency compared to buying the same number of individual large plants. The price ultimately represents the cost of skipping the five-to-seven-year waiting period for a hedge to reach a screening size.
Logistics of Planting Mature Hedges
Installing mature hedging presents specific physical and logistical challenges that must be planned for. A Balled and Burlapped root ball for a specimen hedge can weigh several hundred pounds due to the weight of the soil and trapped moisture. This weight necessitates the use of heavy machinery, such as skid steers, compact loaders, or small cranes, to move the plants from the delivery truck to the planting site.
Site access is a major limitation, as narrow gates, fences, and existing landscaping can prevent the necessary equipment from reaching the planting location. The preparation of the planting area is also more intensive; a continuous trench must be dug that is at least twice the width of the root ball or panel. The trench must be deep enough for the top of the root system to sit level with the surrounding soil, ensuring the large root structure has loose soil to immediately begin establishing new growth.
Essential Care for Establishment
The transition from the nursery to the final planting location is a stressful event for any mature plant, resulting in transplant shock. The most important factor for a newly planted mature hedge’s survival is an immediate and consistent watering schedule. Deep watering is necessary immediately upon planting, and the soil must be kept consistently moist for the first one to two years, especially during dry periods.
Larger, taller specimens may require temporary staking or guying with cables to stabilize them against wind until the roots can anchor the plant securely in the ground. Although the plants are mature, avoid heavy fertilization immediately after planting, as this can encourage shoot growth before the compromised root system is ready to support it. Monitoring the plants for signs of stress, such as wilting, browning, or sudden leaf drop, is necessary, as these indicators of transplant shock require immediate attention to adjust watering or soil conditions.