Mature trees can be purchased and professionally installed to create an immediate, established landscape. This involves acquiring specimen trees, which are typically field-grown for many years in specialized nurseries. The desire for instant shade, privacy, or aesthetic appeal drives the market for these larger trees, eliminating the long wait associated with planting saplings. Successful installation relies on horticultural knowledge, specialized heavy equipment, and precise execution.
Defining the Maximum Transplantable Size
The term “full grown” is relative in the commercial transplanting world, where the practical limit is determined by logistics and the tree’s survival rate. Tree size is primarily measured by caliper, which is the trunk’s diameter measured six inches above the soil line for smaller trees, or twelve inches for larger specimens. The industry standard for the minimum root ball diameter required to support a tree is typically ten to twelve inches for every one inch of trunk caliper.
A tree with a six-inch caliper, for example, requires a root ball that is at least five to six feet wide. While smaller trees can be moved with hydraulic tree spades, trees exceeding a 10 to 12-inch caliper often require hand-digging or complex machinery like cranes. The physical constraints of transporting such large, heavy root balls, including road width limitations and the weight capacity of transport trucks, generally set the upper ceiling for what can be practically and affordably moved.
How Specialized Nurseries Prepare Mature Trees
Specialized nurseries cultivate trees in the field until they reach the desired maturity for transplanting, which can take many years. The most common method for preparing these trees for sale is the Ball and Burlap (B&B) technique. This process involves digging a substantial volume of the tree’s original soil, which contains the core root system, and tightly wrapping it in burlap, often secured with a wire cage.
For medium-to-large trees, specialized hydraulic tree spades are used. These employ sharp blades to cut a clean, conical root ball from the ground, lifting the entire mass of soil and roots in one piece to minimize disturbance for transport. For very large trees, the root ball is carefully hand-dug and “boxed” into a rigid wooden frame to maintain its integrity during the move. Moving the tree by the root ball, rather than the trunk, is crucial to prevent the soil from separating from the roots, which would severely compromise the tree’s chance of survival.
The Comprehensive Cost of Large Tree Installation
The financial investment for installing a large, mature tree involves costs that extend far beyond the initial purchase price of the specimen itself. The total expense is typically categorized into three main components: acquisition, specialized logistics, and final installation. The price of the tree is determined by its species, health, and caliper, with large specimens often costing thousands of dollars.
Specialized logistics make up a significant portion of the total cost, as they require heavy equipment and skilled labor. This includes the rental of hydraulic tree spades or cranes, the cost of the crew to operate them, and transport fees, which can include obtaining specific road permits for oversized loads. Installation costs cover site preparation, the labor to precisely place the massive root ball, and post-planting services like initial deep watering and mulching. For a very large specimen, the total project cost can easily range from a few thousand to over ten thousand dollars.
Ensuring Survival After Transplant
Once the tree is in its new location, the owner must commit to a precise aftercare regimen to ensure successful establishment and mitigate transplant shock. This shock is caused by the significant root loss, sometimes up to 95% of the fine, water-absorbing feeder roots, that occurs during the digging process. The most important factor for recovery is a consistent and deep watering schedule, especially during the first two to four years.
Deep soaking once or twice a week is far more effective than shallow, frequent sprinkles, as it encourages new roots to grow downward, promoting stability. A layer of organic mulch, spread two to four inches deep around the base, helps to retain soil moisture, regulate root temperature, and suppress competing weeds. It is important to keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk itself to prevent the bark from rotting. The tree’s recovery period can last for several years, meaning patience and vigilant care are necessary for long-term success.