Succulents, known for their fleshy leaves and drought tolerance, are ideal indoor plants. These desert-adapted species store water in their leaves, stems, or roots, making them resilient to dry conditions often found in homes. Successful indoor cultivation requires mimicking their native arid environments, which means adjusting the light and watering conditions compared to typical houseplants. The primary challenges for indoor succulent growers revolve around providing sufficient light and preventing the single biggest killer: overwatering.
Meeting Essential Light Requirements
The single most important factor for a thriving indoor succulent collection is light intensity, as most varieties require a minimum of six hours of bright light daily. This light must be substantially brighter than what is needed for many foliage houseplants because the intensity of light drops off dramatically once it passes through window glass. Succulents placed in a north-facing window will receive insufficient light, making a south or west-facing window the preferred location for the most intense exposure throughout the day.
Even in the brightest window, the light is considered “bright indirect” rather than the full-spectrum sun they receive outdoors. Insufficient light causes etiolation, or stretching. This results in a pale, elongated stem with widely spaced leaves as the plant searches for a light source.
If natural light is inadequate, artificial grow lights become necessary. Fluorescent tube lights or LED grow lights should be positioned close to the plants to be effective. For fluorescent bulbs, a distance of 6 to 12 inches is generally recommended, while less intense LED lights are often placed 18 to 24 inches away. The lights should be run on a timer for 12 to 14 hours each day to simulate a complete solar cycle, ensuring the plants receive the energy needed for healthy, compact growth.
Proper Watering and Drainage Techniques
Overwatering is the most frequent cause of indoor succulent failure, as the plant’s water-storing tissues are highly susceptible to rot in consistently moist soil. The rule for watering is to wait until the soil is completely dry before soaking it thoroughly, a method often called “soak and dry.” This approach ensures the roots are fully hydrated but are not sitting in saturated soil for extended periods.
Watering frequency is drastically reduced indoors due to lower air circulation and less intense light, which slows evaporation. During cooler winter months, many succulents enter dormancy and their metabolic activity slows. Watering should be reduced even further during this time, sometimes to once a month or less, as the plant needs minimal moisture.
The choice of container and soil is paramount for proper drainage. A pot must have a drainage hole at the bottom to allow excess water to escape immediately. Succulents require a low-organic-matter soil that mimics their native gritty, well-draining environment. A specialized succulent or cactus mix, often containing components like perlite, pumice, or coarse sand, is ideal because it prevents compaction and ensures rapid water flow away from the roots.
Recognizing Common Indoor Succulent Issues
When care requirements are not met, indoor succulents quickly develop signs of distress. Etiolation, the stretching caused by insufficient light, cannot be reversed on the affected stem. The stretched section must be pruned away, and the plant relocated to a brighter spot or placed under a grow light to ensure new growth is compact.
The most destructive problem is root rot, which results from a combination of overwatering and poor drainage. Signs of root rot include soft, mushy, or discolored leaves and stems, often accompanied by a foul odor from the soil. If root rot is suspected, the plant must be removed from the pot to inspect the roots; healthy roots are firm and white, while rotted roots are dark brown or black and mushy. The affected roots must be trimmed off with a sterilized tool, and the plant should be repotted in fresh, dry, well-draining soil.
Indoor succulents are also susceptible to specific pests, particularly mealybugs and fungus gnats. Mealybugs appear as small, white, cottony masses typically found in the crevices where leaves meet the stem. They can be effectively treated by applying 70% isopropyl alcohol directly to the pests using a cotton swab or a spray bottle. Fungus gnats are small, dark flies that hover near the soil surface and indicate the soil is staying too moist, which can be remedied by letting the soil completely dry out between waterings and applying food-grade diatomaceous earth to the soil surface.