The vibrant blooms of an orchid eventually fade and drop, a natural cycle that often prompts concern from new growers. Fortunately, orchids are perennial plants that will reliably rebloom if given the proper conditions and care. Losing the flowers marks the end of the current bloom cycle and the beginning of a resting period, known as the vegetative phase. During this time, the plant gathers energy for its next floral display. Understanding this post-bloom phase is the first step toward encouraging a healthy plant to produce new flower spikes.
What to Do with the Spent Flower Spike
Once the final flower has dropped, the next step is addressing the long stalk, known as the flower spike. The spike’s appearance dictates the action: a green, firm spike retains living tissue, while a yellow or brown spike is fully spent and should be removed. For the common Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid), a green spike offers the possibility of a secondary rebloom.
To encourage this quicker flowering, locate a small, triangular bump (a dormant node) on the spike and make a clean cut about one inch above it. Always use a sterile tool, such as a razor blade or pruning shears, to prevent introducing pathogens. This redirects the plant’s energy to that node, potentially forcing it to grow a new side branch and bloom within a few months.
If the flower spike has turned completely yellow or brown, the plant has withdrawn all resources. The entire spike should be cut off near the base, leaving a small stub of about an inch. Removing the brown spike encourages the plant to focus on root and leaf growth, which are necessary for a stronger future bloom. Some growers cut the entire spike at the base, even if green, to dedicate all energy to vegetative growth for a more robust bloom later.
Maintaining Health During Dormancy
After the flower spike is addressed, the orchid enters a period of vegetative growth. Consistent, stable care is required to build up energy reserves for the next bloom cycle. This phase is a time of rest from flowering, focusing on producing new leaves and roots. Maintaining the correct light environment is paramount, as insufficient light is a leading cause of reblooming failure.
Orchids thrive in bright, indirect light, such as in east-facing windows, or slightly shaded south or west-facing windows. Leaves should be a medium, grassy-green color; dark green indicates insufficient light, while yellowing suggests too much direct sunlight. Watering technique remains consistent, following a soak-and-dry method.
The potting medium should be allowed to dry slightly between waterings to prevent root rot. Watering frequency, typically every 7 to 10 days, depends heavily on the humidity and temperature of the environment. Fertilization should continue using a balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer diluted to one-quarter or one-half strength. Regular watering with plain water every third or fourth watering helps flush out accumulated mineral salts that can damage sensitive roots.
Triggering the Next Bloom Cycle
To get an orchid to grow back its flowers, you must provide specific environmental cues that signal the plant to switch from vegetative to reproductive growth. The primary trigger for many popular orchids, including Phalaenopsis, is a distinct drop in night temperature. This temperature differential mimics the natural seasonal change that initiates flowering in the wild.
To induce a new flower spike, expose the orchid to nighttime temperatures consistently 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit cooler than daytime temperatures, ideally dropping into the 55–65°F range for several weeks. This is often achieved by placing the orchid near a slightly opened window in early autumn, while protecting it from cold drafts. Daytime temperature should remain in the standard range of 65–75°F.
During this temperature cycling, ensure the orchid receives adequate light duration, as some species are sensitive to changes in photoperiod. Growers must watch for the emergence of a new flower spike, which can take weeks or months. A new spike is often confused with a root, but a spike tip will be more pointed or mitten-shaped and grow upwards, while a root tip is typically rounded and grows downward into the potting medium.
Once the new spike is clearly visible and begins to lengthen, the orchid can be returned to its normal, warmer location. Some growers switch to a higher phosphorus fertilizer to support flower development, though a balanced formula is sufficient. Patience and consistent care are required, as the process from spike emergence to the opening of the first flower can take an additional two to four months.