Blueberry bushes are popular for their fruit and ornamental appeal, but they require highly specific conditions, including acidic soil. Transplanting involves relocating an established bush, a process that inherently causes stress by severing a portion of the root system. Attempting this during the summer growing season introduces extreme challenges that must be addressed for the plant to survive the move.
Why Summer Transplanting Is Risky
The ideal time for transplanting blueberries is during their dormant period, typically late fall or early spring, when active growth has paused. Moving the bush in summer disrupts this natural cycle because the plant is fully engaged in foliage and fruit production, demanding high energy and water expenditure.
High summer temperatures dramatically increase transpiration, the evaporation of water from the leaves. When roots are severed during the move, the remaining system cannot supply the necessary moisture to the large leaf surface area. This imbalance leads to rapid water loss and severe dehydration, commonly known as transplant shock, which can quickly cause the bush to wilt and die.
The plant’s energy is currently directed toward photosynthesis and developing fruit, not repairing damaged roots. Disturbing the root zone forces the bush to divert energy toward survival, often resulting in stunted growth or the loss of the entire plant. Successful summer transplanting requires meticulous planning to counteract these physiological stressors.
Essential Preparation Before Digging
Mitigating transplant shock begins by reducing the plant’s water demands and preparing the destination site. Start by thoroughly saturating the root zone with water for several days leading up to the move. This pre-hydration helps the root ball hold its structure once lifted.
To balance the inevitable root loss, prune the above-ground canopy by approximately 30 to 50 percent. This reduction in leaf mass directly lowers the surface area available for transpiration, matching the reduced capacity of the damaged root system. Focus on removing older, less productive canes and thinning the interior of the bush to improve air circulation.
The new planting site must be fully prepared with a hole two to three times wider than the estimated root ball. Incorporate acidic amendments like peat moss or aged pine bark to maintain the required low pH. Schedule the physical move for the coolest time of day, either very early morning or late evening, to minimize exposure to peak heat stress.
The Summer Transplant Procedure
Blueberry bushes have a shallow, fibrous root system, meaning the root ball must be wide to capture sufficient feeder roots. For an established bush, carefully dig a circle around the base with a diameter of at least 18 to 24 inches. The depth of the root ball rarely needs to exceed 12 inches, as most roots are concentrated in the top foot of soil.
Use a sharp spade to make clean cuts around the perimeter, then undercut the root ball to lift it intact. Handle the root ball carefully, placing it immediately onto burlap or a tarp for support and transport. This covering keeps the roots moist and prevents the soil mass from disintegrating, which would exacerbate root damage.
Once at the new site, position the bush in the prepared hole so the top of the root ball sits exactly at or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Planting deeper can lead to stem rot and suffocation of the shallow feeder roots. Backfill the hole gently with the amended soil mixture, lightly tamping it to eliminate air pockets, and then immediately begin post-planting watering.
Immediate Survival Care
The first two weeks following a summer transplant are the most vulnerable period, requiring a consistent watering regimen to encourage root establishment. Immediately after planting, water deeply to fully settle the soil and saturate the entire root ball. Daily deep watering is often necessary during high-heat conditions to keep the shallow root zone consistently moist.
To maintain the cool, moist environment blueberry roots require, apply a thick layer of acidic organic mulch immediately after watering. A 3- to 4-inch layer of pine needles, wood chips, or sawdust spread over the root zone will insulate the soil, suppress weed competition, and minimize surface evaporation. Ensure the mulch is kept several inches away from the main canes to prevent rot caused by moisture buildup.
Providing temporary shade is an effective way to lower the leaf temperature and reduce the bush’s transpiration rate during the hottest part of the day. Erecting a temporary shade cloth or using a patio umbrella to block intense afternoon sun for the first few weeks can significantly reduce heat stress and improve survival. Regularly monitor the leaves for signs of wilting or browning, which indicates the need for immediate moisture.