Your Monstera can be successfully moved from soil to a water-based culture, sometimes called hydroponics or semi-hydroponics. This transition is appealing because it eliminates soil-borne pests, removes the risk of overwatering, and allows for a clearer view of the root system. Growing plants in water long-term requires a shift in maintenance, but it offers a clean, alternative way to cultivate your plant. The process involves carefully preparing the root structure for its new growing medium.
Step-by-Step Transitioning from Soil to Water
To convert your Monstera, gently remove the plant from its pot and brush away as much soil as possible from the root ball. Wash the remaining soil particles from the roots under a stream of lukewarm water until they are completely clean. This thorough washing is necessary because any residual organic matter will decompose in the water, creating an anaerobic environment that promotes bacterial growth and root rot.
The roots that grew in the soil, known as terrestrial roots, are structurally distinct from the roots required for water culture. Terrestrial roots are thicker and sturdier, adapted to draw oxygen from the air pockets within the soil structure, and they possess a protective outer layer. When fully submerged, these roots will often struggle to absorb the dissolved oxygen in the water and may begin to degrade.
You can leave the soil-grown roots intact, but they will likely shed over the following weeks as the plant adapts. This shedding can cause the water to become cloudy and malodorous, necessitating more frequent water changes initially. The plant will then grow new, specialized aquatic roots, which are thinner and more delicate, having evolved to efficiently absorb oxygen and nutrients directly from the water solution.
Select a container large enough to hold the root mass and provide support. Ensure the entire root system is submerged while the crown and stem remain above the waterline. This separation is important because the plant stem is not designed to be constantly wet and may rot if submerged. Use high-quality water, such as distilled water, rainwater, or tap water left out for 24 hours to allow chlorine to dissipate.
Essential Differences in Water Culture Care
The most significant difference in long-term care is nutrient delivery. The plant requires a complete, balanced liquid fertilizer formulated specifically for hydroponic systems, as plain water contains none of the necessary minerals. Standard houseplant fertilizers are often too concentrated and lack the specific mineral balance needed for a soil-less medium.
Add a heavily diluted hydroponic nutrient solution to the water, typically at a quarter to half strength, to avoid chemical burn on the roots. Fertilize once a month during active growth, adding the solution only after the water has been completely changed. Since the roots lack the physical insulation soil provides, they are slightly more sensitive to sudden temperature fluctuations.
Regular water changes are paramount for the health of your Monstera, ideally once every one to two weeks. This practice removes waste products secreted by the roots and replenishes the dissolved oxygen content in the water. Stagnant water quickly becomes depleted of oxygen, leading to the same anaerobic conditions that cause root rot.
When changing the water, rinse the roots and the interior of the container to prevent the buildup of mineral deposits and biological film. The water level should be maintained so that all the roots are submerged, but you must consistently ensure the plant’s stem is dry. You will likely only need to top up the water between full changes due to evaporation.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Algae growth is a frequent issue, particularly when a clear glass container is exposed to bright light. Algae compete with the plant roots for nutrients and dissolved oxygen, potentially stressing the plant. The easiest remedy is to switch to an opaque or dark-colored vessel, which blocks the light necessary for algae photosynthesis. Clean the container thoroughly during bi-weekly water changes.
Root rot can still occur in water culture, usually appearing as brown, mushy, or slimy sections on the roots. This condition is caused by insufficient oxygen in stagnant water or the decomposition of residual soil particles. If you notice signs of rot, trim the affected roots away with clean scissors. Immediately change the water to a fresh, oxygenated supply.
Over time, you may observe a white, crusty residue forming on the container walls and potentially on the roots, which is a sign of mineral buildup from the water and fertilizer. While not immediately harmful, this buildup can interfere with nutrient uptake and is best removed periodically. A gentle rinse with distilled water or a light scrub with a soft brush during a water change will keep the system clean and efficient.