Growing a cherry tree from a pit is possible, but it requires patience and specific horticultural steps. The pit contains the seed, which holds the genetic material for a new tree. Before germination, the cherry seed requires a period of simulated winter cold, known as stratification, to break its natural dormancy. The resulting tree will be genetically unique, meaning the quality of the fruit is unpredictable.
Understanding Cherry Genetics
The primary caution is that the resulting tree will not “grow true to seed.” This means the fruit it eventually produces will likely differ from the parent cherry in size, flavor, and texture. Most commercial cherry varieties are hybrids or have been propagated through grafting. The seed inside the pit is the result of sexual reproduction, containing a genetic blend of the parent tree and the pollen source, making it a unique genetic individual.
Because of this genetic variation, the tree that sprouts from your pit may yield fruit that is sour, smaller, or less palatable than the store-bought variety. In some cases, the tree may fail to produce any fruit at all, especially if it requires a cross-pollinator that is not present. Managing expectations is important, as a cherry tree grown from a pit typically takes between five and ten years to reach the maturity required to produce its first harvest.
Stratification: Preparing the Cherry Pit for Growth
For the seed to germinate, it must first undergo cold, moist conditioning that mimics the natural winter environment, known as cold stratification. To begin, thoroughly clean the pit to remove all traces of fruit pulp, which can harbor mold or fungus. After cleaning, the hard outer shell must be gently cracked or lightly sanded to help water penetrate the seed, taking care not to damage the inner seed.
Mix the cleaned pits with a moist, sterile medium such as peat moss, sand, or perlite. This mixture should be damp, like a wrung-out sponge, but not soaking wet, to prevent rot. Place the pits and medium in a breathable container, such as a plastic bag with small holes for air exchange, and seal it. Store the container in a refrigerator, maintaining a consistent temperature between 34 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
The seeds must remain in this cold environment for about 10 to 14 weeks to fully break dormancy. Check the container periodically to ensure the medium remains moist and to look for signs of mold growth. If mold appears, wipe the seeds down with a mild solution of hydrogen peroxide and return them to a fresh, moist medium. Once chilling is complete, the seeds are ready for planting in warmer conditions.
Planting and Early Care
Once stratification is finished, plant the chilled pits indoors or directly into a nursery bed after the last hard frost. Select a well-draining soil mixture, as cherry seedlings are susceptible to root rot. The ideal soil pH for cherry growth is slightly acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0). Plant the pits shallowly, about one inch deep, and keep the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged.
If started indoors, place the pits in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Germination is variable, taking a few weeks to a couple of months for the seedling to emerge. Once seedlings develop their first true leaves and reach six to twelve inches, they must be gradually introduced to the outdoor environment. This process, known as “hardening off,” involves moving the young tree outside for progressively longer periods to acclimate it to direct sunlight, wind, and temperature fluctuations.
For a permanent location, cherry trees thrive in full sun, requiring at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. The soil should be deep to accommodate the quickly developing taproot. Protecting the young tree from pests, especially deer and rabbits, is important in the early years. Consistent watering is necessary during the first few growing seasons to establish a strong root system.